“Because I’m Happy”

imageWhen Pharell Williams wrote the song “Happy”, he must have just been returning from a trip to Bhutan.  This country takes the term happiness to a whole new level.   Since 1971, the country has rejected GDP as the only way to measure progress.  In its place, it has a much better approach called the Gross National Happiness (GNH) that is measured by the spirtual, physical, social, and environmental health of the people in Bhutan.

And these people truly are examples of a healthy GNH!  Everywhere you go you meet people who are genuinely happy and extremely calm and helpful. There is no real crime or poverty to speak of in this country.  Every home is well taken care of and full of artistic touches. Today we went on a mountain bike ride in the country side and every where we went the children and adults came running out of their homes with big smiles on their faces to come and greet us and wish us Hello!

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Buddhism is practiced by 80% of the people here and it is truly a way of life.  Almost every home has a shrine in it that is used for spiritual purposes. The sharing of this non-violent, non-materialistic faith communes the people in a special way that is not seen in most cultures.  Astrology plays a major role in all Bhutanese affairs.   Days are deemed to be “auspicious” or “inauspicious” and they follow them closely.  We were lucky enough to get the opportunity to meet with a Bhutanese astrologer.  He was an elderly gentleman with ancient scrolls in front of him that he consulted.  Since Buddhists also believe in reincarnation,  Brad and I both found out about our past lives.  (Turns out I was a God and Brad just a Demi-God!)  We also found out our best and worse days for making major life decisions and best colors.  Most interestingly, we found out some of our personality traits and ways to improve upon our nature.  The good news is that we were told that we are good together as a couple and will be together for a long time!  Not sure what we would have done if we would have found out otherwise.

 

No description of Bhutan would be complete without talking about the importance of phallic symbols in their culture.  Brad said he would prefer I discuss this topic so here goes!  Phallic paintings, statues, and symbols are everywhere in Bhutan.  Homes are routinely painted with phalluses and carved wooden phalluses hang on the eves of new homes at the four corners. (Bring new meaning to the term being well hung!) The Bhutanese believe that these symbols bring good luck and drive away evil spirits.  All I know is that it brought lots of entertainment to our group and I am certain that it has something to do with why the Bhutanese are so happy!  Enough said on this topic but here are a few pictures so you can get the idea.

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This is our last night in Bhutan and I am sorry to leave.  The scenery is breathtaking, the people are caring and gentle, the food is delicious, and the spiritual nature of the land is intrinsic.  Right now, the only way to get in to Bhutan is through a travel agent or tour and each person must spend $250 a person per night.  There are two large hotels going up soon; a Four Seasons and a Meridian, and things are changing in Bhutan that could make this place a lot more crowded with tourists.  My advise to all of you is if you are thinking of coming to Bhutan, come within the next five years before it gets crowded and touristy!  Without a doubt, it is one of the most authentic, magical places we have ever visited!

A couple of Bhutanese proverbs before I sign off:

“If you search for happiness, you will not find it.  If happiness searches for you, it will always find you.”

“Life is like footprints in the snow.  Every step will show.”

 

P.S.  We are no longer in the land of social media so if anyone would like to share this on Facebook for us, feel free!  Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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Bhutan: The Tiger’s Nest

The Taktshang Monastery is perched on a cliff at 10,500 feet above sea level.  Legend has it that a Buddhist guru flew there in the 8th century on the back of a tigress and meditated for a very long time in the caves on these grounds.  The monastery is a beautiful structure that appears to hang on the cliff.  We’re not quite sure how it was built given it’s remote location on this rugged mountain.

The Tiger’s Nest, as it is called, became the most fascinating hike we have ever done.  The hike, while challenging, wasn’t excessively difficult.  Yet, the beauty and spirituality of the day was something we’ll never forget.

Our group started off with a 7 am departure from the hotel.  Forty-five minutes later we arrived at the base of the mountain, about 2000 feet below the Tiger’s Nest.  Take a look:

 

As you can see the hike looks pretty daunting.  But, we set off on the trail determined to get all 14 of our group to the top. The lower part of the hike meandered through beautiful forest land.  
  
   
 These multi-colored prayer flags placed by people wishing for blessings for loved ones in need.

As we hiked higher, we began to get a better view of the monastery.  We also had great views of the valley floor below.

   
   This is a teahouse built on the mountainside about halfway up.

As we got closer, the trail gave way to stairs  — about 800 of them — that replaced a single-track trail that led up and down the cliffside.  We couldn’t resist taking a few photos of each other with the Tiger’s Nest on the background.

   

We finally arrived at the monastery.  Our guide Nima, a devout Buddhist, led us through the structure with explanations of the religious importance of different parts of the building.  We spent time meditating in one of its most sacred rooms.  It was a moving experience. We were unable to take photos inside the building.  But, here is a picture from just outside.  We also hiked by a waterfall with a prayer wheel that was driven by the falling water.  It is said that for each rotation of the wheel the prayer written on the wheel is delivered.

   
 The prayer wheel is on the little white structure at the bottom of the photo. The building up above it is a meditation center for the monks.

After our visit we trekked our way back down the mountain and enjoyed a cold beer, a great lunch, and entertainment by traditional Bhutanese dancers.   All of us made the entire trip and truly enjoyed relaxing at the base.  Brad even trained the feral dogs how to sit for a treat or two!  We have so much more to tell you about Bhutan.  But, we thought we’d bring you this short photo essay of our hike today.  Stay tuned for our overall thoughts on the country soon.  We are loving our visit!

   
    

 
 

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Of Kings, Culture, Temples, Buddha (etc., etc., etc.)

“Our king has served longer than Queen Elizabeth of England,” said Sarah, our guide for the time we spent in Bangkok, — “Sixty-eight years.”  The King of Thailand is Rama 9 — number nine in the longest running monarchy in the world.  You probably know of Rama 4.  He is the one who brought Anna to Siam from England to teach his children, inspiring the book Anna and the King of Siam which led to the musical, The King and I. More on that from Lisa below.

The forward-thinking nature of these monarchs meant that Siam was never subjuct to colonization by France or England.  It remained free.  The word Thai means free, which inspired Rama 5 to change the name of the country to Thailand — land of the free — in 1939.

Bangkok, on the Chao Phraya river, is home to 12 million residents. It has a canal system that runs throughout the city, leading some to call it the Venice of Southeast Asia.  Despite this fact, there are over 8 million cars and countless motorcycles in Bangkok with too few roads to hold them.  So getting around can be time consuming. Many residents have long commutes from the suburbs to work each day.

Nevertheless, we ventured out by riverboat, van, and tuk tuk to see the sights of this beautiful metropolis. Since 95% of Thais are Buddhist, there are many temples to see. And, the deep-seated monarchy meant many palaces to view as well. From the 150-foot reclining Buddha plated in gold to the former residences of Kings Rama 4 and 5, we went on a whirlwind tour to take them all in during our short 48-hour stay.

   
 The Reclining Buddha is 150 feet long by 30 feet tall. It is made of stucco and plated in 24-karat gold.

  Wat Pho Temple grounds.

   
    
 Temples on the Grand Palace grounds

  Siem Reap Cambodia used to be part of Siam, so the King had a replica of Angkor Wat built as a reminder.

  King Rama 4 went to school in England. Note the British architecture combined with the Thai roofline.

  The Grand Palace grounds seen from the Chao Phraya river at night.

But, as usual when visiting a new land, it is the people and the culture that provide the most interesting and educational experiences for Lisa and me. The Thai people are friendly, respectful, and proud of their country.  Over 99% of Thais are employed, but, wages today remain low (Sarah says about $10 per day), so all must work to sustain themselves.  It is customary for extended families to live under one roof, and it isn’t unusual for three or four generations to live together.  The kids never move out and often you’re destined to live with your mother-in-law the rest of your life!  When the girls marry, they generally go live with the husband’s family.  So, Lisa and I would still end up empty-nesters in Thailand.  

There are three seasons in Thailand — the rainy season, summer, and winter.  But, Bangkok is on the southern end of the country.  So, Sarah tells us their three season are hot, hotter, and hottest.  We visited between hotter and hottest.  Whew!

The Thai language has 46 letters with 24 vowels.  The nuance in pronunciation is so subtle that our American ears were unable to discern the difference in many of the words.  For example, Sarah says her nickname is Jim.  I said, “Jim?”  She said, “No, Jim.”  “You see,” she said, “There are five ways to say Jim — Jim, Jim, Jim, Jim, and Jim.”  Now, I have to say, they all sounded the same to me.  The conversation from there got very funny as I kept saying, “Jim” and she’d say, “No, Jim.”  I finally got it right once and quit right there as I couldn’t tell why the last time was right and the others weren’t.

Speaking of Jim, there is a famous American named Jim Thompson who had quite an impact on Thailand.  He was an Army officer, some say a CIA agent, an architect and a, yes, a fashion designer.  Jim Thompson seemingly single-handedly revived the silk industry in Thailand. He provided the silk costumes used in the filming of The King and I.  We visited his home, called reverently, by the locals, the Jim Thompson house (what else?).  Mr. Thompson took several small 100-year-old homes from the countryside and relocated them to Bangkok, then assembled them together into one large home.  It is fascinating in that it retains the traditional Thai archetecture, and contains Jim’s collection of artifacts that qualify the place as a museum.

Lisa, of course, supported the Thai economy by picking up several of Mr. Thompson’s wares.  I’ll report that she looks quite good in those silk shirts.

Finally,  given the perfect growing climate, flowers are plentiful in Thailand.  The Thai people bring home fresh flowers daily.  Sarah took us to the flower market, which is several blocks long.  Flower vendors sold flowers of every type.  We found vendors that sell beautiful orchids.  So, I offered to get some for Lisa since I know she loves orchids.  We found a large bunch that comprised about 50 stems of orchids and paid the princely sum for them of 50 baht. Uh, that translates to $1.40.  Sarah told me that when a boy in Thailand gives a girl orchids she turns up her nose.  Too cheap.  Well, I tried.

Our visit to Thailand was far too short.  It was only meant as a staging area to kick off our visit to the Himalayas.  I am certain we will return to spend more time seeing the country some day. We’re now off with our new companions — seven other couples — to see Bhutan.  More on that visit soon.

SHALL WE DANCE? by Lisa

I have always been fascinated with the country of Thailand and the story of Anna and the King. I think it all started when I was eight years old and got the chance to play one of the King’s children in summer stock theater at the Wagon Wheel playhouse in Winona Lake, IN in their production of the King and I.  I read every book I could about Anna and the King when I was growing up, learned all of the music on the piano, and saw countless productions of the musical.  In fact, we just saw the play on Broadway in September.  Naturally, I wanted to know all about this king and the “facts” surrounding the show.  I imagined there would be “King and I” tours and all kinds of memorabilia surrounding the book and movies.  Boy, was I wrong!  The government has banned all versions of the “King and I” including any books, plays, or movies about the subject.   A  public viewing of the play is seen as a treasonous offense and can include jail time.  Although Hollywood tried to appease the government by changing parts of the script, they still didn’t feel that they paid the proper respect to the monarchy and King Rama 4.  

Hollywood filmed The King and I and the 90’s movie Anna and the King in nearby Indonesia because the government refused to let them film in Thailand.  Our guide also burst my bubble by letting us know that the famous “Shall We Dance” scene would never have happened between the King and a commoner.  He would have never danced with Anna  much less let her look him in the eyes or even stand at his level during the time of his reign.  We did get to see the grounds where Anna lived and taught the King’s children and found out it was because of her that the King’s son went on to Oxford in England to study and further advance the Thai people in their efforts to educate and modernize the country.  History and Hollywood once again don’t always agree with one another but I like the “Rogers and Hammerstein” version better than reality so I’ll go back to “Whistling My Happy Tune” and believing in “Something Wonderful” . . . etcetera, etcetera, etcetera.

 Our Tuk Tuk adventure.

   
    
 The flower market, including Lisa’s orchids.
   
     

  Our evening puppet show required three puppeteers per puppet in an amazingly choreographed dance.  After the show the puppets hammed it up with us.

  Our sad goodbye to Sarah as she saw us off at the Bangkok airport.

    
    
    
 
 

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The Mighty Himalayas

Source: The Mighty Himalayas

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The Mighty Himalayas

On Tuesday, Nov 3, Brad and I are heading out for a two week journey to the Himalayan countries. We’ll visit Thailand, Bhutan, China, and Tibet.  The wonderful team through Exclusive Resorts will be our travel guide and have given us our packing lists, visas, and tons of advice on how to sleep at high altitude!  We will be traveling from Bangkok at sea level to over 14,000 feet in Tibet.  Packing for this adventure is a challenge as well since the current temperature in Bangkok is 92 degrees and in Lhasa, Tibet it is 36 degrees with snow showers!  Packing only 44 lbs of luggage for such different climates could be our first real test of the trip!

We chose the Himalayas because it brought together hiking, spiritual and cultural events, and just plain breath-taking views for Brad to photograph!  We also hope to go to a lot of markets and add to the canvas food pictures on our kitchen wall.  I personally am looking forward to meeting with an astrologer, learning about Tibetan medicine and buddhism, and taking an archery lesson among all of the other site-seeing opportunities.  It’s going to be a trip we won’t soon forget!

Our original trip was to include Nepal but we no longer can visit there because of the devastating earthquake that hit the country last spring.  We had friends on that journey and were following them via Facebook.  They were in the airport the day the earthquake hit and were able to leave five hours later. They were, however, definitely affected by the quake and how close they came to being in a disaster of epic proportions.  We are saddened that we still cannot visit Nepal because the infrastructure is not capable of hosting tourists yet.  We know that this must be devastating to the economy and people of Nepal.

We will try our very best to keep you posted about our journeys via this blog but we have been told that some of the countries we will visit won’t allow us to post via Facebook (What? The horror!) and the internet.  When I called AT&T yesterday to get extra international coverage, they let me know that they really don’t have an international service plan where we are going so we should try not to use our phones unless there is a true emergency!  I guess we really will be off the grid!

We have published our itinerary on the side of this blog so you can follow where we are during the next two weeks.  At this point, they are just words and names on an itinerary to us as we have never been to any of these places before and have only briefly read our travel books.  (I’m not sure that Brad even knows exactly what day and time we are leaving yet!)  Those of you who have followed us before know that our trips have had many interesting twists and turns from Brad being detained in Chile for a contraband apple to Lisa getting a fish massage in Cambodia and, of course, to Brad’s infamous $2.50 haircut.  (They are in previous posts if you are interested!)  Who knows what mishaps lie ahead!

Enjoy the journey with us!

Brad and Lisa

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Final Thoughts on our Trip to Argentina and Chile

Group Travel is not for everyone.  Sometimes there are schedules and early wake-up calls and tours that might not be of interest. Sometimes you have the loss of spontaneity that you get when you travel alone.    But if you travel with a group like we just did, you will find yourself having adventures that you never thought you would experience and go to places that you have never heard of.  When we signed on for this trip, we were excited about visiting Buenos Aires and Santiago;  we had read about these two cities and had seen many photographs.  As everyone knows, we love our wine so we knew that Mendoza would be a favorite for the both of us.  Drinking Malbec at the base of the Andes Mountains?  A no-brainer.

But we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert.  We had no idea what to expect; the itinerary suggested some hiking in the mountains and we thought that would be fun because we like to hike.  Little did we know that we would get to see landscapes so unreal that we thought we were in a movie set of Star Wars or Indiana Jones; or  that we would experience bubbling, sizzling geysers as we watched the sunrise in the Andes; or view the clearest night skies we have ever seen.   And, of course, we never dreamed we would run down a steep sand dune giggling and whooping it up like a bunch of children!

Another thing that happens on a group trip is that you form some wonderful friendships and bonds over the course of ten days.  We didn’t know any of the 22 people on our trip before we arrived but now we have lasting memories with each of them.  We all shared a love of travel and adventure but beyond that we all lived very different lives all throughout various parts of the country.  Because of this trip, we can now say we have tangoed together in Buenos Aires, discovered a secret speak-easy disguised as a floral shop, discussed art with an influential Buenos Aires Painter, played a Blind Wine-Tasting Game at the foot of the Andes, biked and hiked in Mendoza, were detained in a Chilean airport (ok…just Adele and Brad can say that), experienced the sunrise with bubbling geysers,  went star-gazing in the Southern Hemisphere, and ran down the steepest sand dune in the Atacama Desert.   Our last lunch was evidence of the bond we all formed as we made toast after toast to all of the fun things we did and our fantastic guides. Ten days ago we were strangers.  We now have a bond that will last a lifetime.

A group trip is only as good as its leaders and we had the good fortune of having a team that cared for our well-being every turn of the way.  Stephanie and Hallie from Blue Parallel worked tirelessly behind the scenes so we didn’t have to worry about anything.  Each of them could have been the same age as some of our children; yet they were the ones working hard to make sure that lost luggage was found and all of our dietary issues (and there were a lot) were cared for at each restaurant and dinner.  The moms of the group were all worried that Stephanie could never finish her meal for having to deal with various issues in the group and kept urging her to eat and rest more!  Stephanie had the patience of a saint and was always smiling and polite (there’s that word again) as the daily itineraries were changed or flights were missed because someone had an apple in his pack!

And then there was Dugald, our leader from Exclusive Resorts.  He was there with a devilish grin urging people to dive in to the freezing cold salt lagoon, run up a cactus-filled hill, or sprint down a steep sand dune– always in good spirit and filled with zest and enthusiasm.  He was a friend to us all,  always asking for feedback and checking in with how the trip was going.

Needless to say, because of all these bonds there were a few tears and lots of hugs when we had to say good-bye to everyone at the Santiago Airport.  We feel very fortunate to have been able to go on this trip with these people.  Memories like these can’t be made in a Frommers Guidebook, National Geographic, or an Internet Travel Site.  They must be savored and enjoyed with a Pisco Sour and a run down a sand dune!

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald:  Our Fearless Leaders

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald: Our Fearless Leaders

The Group

The Group

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Santiago: The Chevy Chase Version

We spent 24 hours in Santiago on the last leg of our South American Journey.  It really isn’t fair to assess a place when you only have 24 hours to take it all in; we felt a little bit like Chevy Chase as Chuck Griswold in the Vacation movies staring at each sight for a few seconds and going on to the next.   As those of you who travel a lot know that by the end of a trip, you can hit tourist burn-out where you just can’t appreciate or retain any more facts about another church or historic building.  I feel like we need to go back to Santiago to really experience the different neighborhoods we saw but here are our brief impressions of the city.

Santiago is a friendly, modern,  and extremely clean city.  The workers clean the city twice a day and you will not see a piece of trash or litter on the ground anywhere.  We took a walk around our hotel and saw very quaint homes and condominium complexes that were extremely well cared for.  Santiago also has a very American feel to it.  On our walk we passed at least four Starbucks and every single American food chain that you can name.  According to our guide, Chileans feel that Applebee’s or Ruby Tuesday is an example of Fine American Dining and is a place that they would take their wife for an anniversary dinner or special occasion.  (I quickly let Brad know that he couldn’t get away with that for our anniversary back here in the States!)

The highlight of our visit to Santiago was dining one last time at lunch with our group at Aqui esta Coco.  It is considered the best seafood restaurant in Santiago and it did not disappoint.  We were served a wide variety of seafood and fish dishes followed by a cake named Grandmother’s 1000 Layer Dulce de Leche cake.  Yum!  The lunch started out with each of us being served a Pisco Sour;  a Chilean drink made with a Pisco liquor, lime, and egg whites.  It went down a little too easy for some of us!  We were also served three different types of wine that never seemed to be empty in our glasses!  (You might also be getting a hint of why our memory of some of the details of Santiago sites are a little hazy!)

Seafood Extravaganza at Aqui Esta Coco

Seafood Extravaganza at Aqui Esta Coco

Our last meal with the group

Our last meal with the group

After our three hour lunch, we hit the city for a tour visiting the Plaza de Armas, the Presidential Palace, and the Bohemian Section of the city.  We ended our tour with a trip up San Cristobal Hill to see the Shrine of the Virgin Mary and views of the city.

Palacio de la Moneda: the Presidential Palace

Palacio de la Moneda: the Presidential Palace

Pedestrian Mall

Pedestrian Mall

It's an election year. Can you tell?

It’s an election year. Can you tell?

Men playing chess in Plaza de Armas

Men playing chess in Plaza de Armas

The Former National Congress Building

The Former National Congress Building

The Shrine of the Virgin Mary

The Shrine of the Virgin Mary

City View of Santiago

City View of Santiago

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The Atacama Desert — Earth, Wind, Fire, and Water (a little bit)

The driest place on Earth.

The Atacama desert in northern Chile receives less rainfall than the Mojave desert, the Sahara desert, and anywhere else on the planet. The wetter area, where we are staying, receives 1 to 2 inches of rain per year. Other places in the region get a mere drop of precipitation. Most of the water for the region comes in the form of snowmelt running off from the Andes Mountains to the east.

We landed on Thursday (after the apple caper) in Calama. We felt like we had traveled to another planet. There was no vegetation whatsoever for miles. When we finally saw green, it was in the form of little stubby brush sparsely sprinkled on the landscape. As we traveled throughout the area in the next couple of days, we found it to be extremely diverse. Part Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom; part Start Wars in the original movie; and, we’re convinced that the Mars Rover actually landed here in another part of the desert.

We’re in the high desert — about 8,000 feet above sea level. The mountains surrounding us rise to 18,000 feet. The area is dominated by volcanoes. In fact, there are 150 active volcanoes in Chile — 10% of the world’s active volcanoes. Several are visible from our vantage point.

It is difficult for us to convey the magnificence of this place. The pictures don’t even do it justice. The population consists of miners (one of the largest copper mining areas in the world) and indigenous people who have been here for thousands of years. The area is geologically active; and, the landscape varies greatly. Our resort is in an oasis that is fed by one of the few precious rivers that flow from the Andes.

We started in the Atacama Salt Flats. Pink flamingoes thrive here on the brine shrimp that are the only marine life in the salt lagoons. We got up very early one morning to see the Tatio Geysers that sit at 15,000 feet above sea level in the mountains. We moved on to the Puritama Thermal Hot Springs for a dip; we watched the sun set on the mountains with colors changing from brown to pink to red. At night we went stargazing. Because of the altitude, the dry air, and the lack of city lights, this is one of the best places in the world for observatories. The Milky Way was prominent, looking like hazy clouds in the sky (for you, Laura Kapp). We saw the Magellenic Clouds for the first time ever since they sit deep in the southern sky and can’t be seen from the Northern Hemisphere.

We then went on one of the most amazing hikes we’ve ever done. Climbing to the top of a ridge, we had a spectacular view of — I’m not sure how to describe it — the jagged red peaks near our resort. We traversed the ridge until we came upon the largest sand dunes we’ve ever seen. The sand literally climbed to the top of the cliffs on the ridge we were hiking.

The guide suddenly stopped and said to us, “we’ll go down here.” Uh, where? There was nothing but giant, steep dunes over the cliff for as far as we could see. “Here,” he said. Down the sand. Whoa. The looks on all the faces of the people in our group were simply stunned. One said, “Where is the other way down. I’m not going down there.” Lisa asked me to stay right with her and hold her hand. Most just kept an uncomfortable look on their faces and stayed silent.

One by one people stepped off the cliff and onto the sand dune. It was soft and deep. Soon we were all slipping and sliding and gliding and running down this steep sand pile. An entire group of fifty-somethings started whooping and hollering like 12-year olds. It was the most amazing hiking experience we’ve ever had. When we got to the bottom we were all exhilarated, high-fiving and laughing out loud. We emptied our shoes of the five pounds of sand that had accumulated in them and hiked out the bottom of the canyon. We drank a well-deserved Chilean beer and toasted our accomplishment.

Take some time to review the photos below. Even though they don’t fully do the region justice — it is so spectacular in person — you’ll get an idea of what we experienced. Before coming here, we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert. This once-in-a-lifetime experience will now forever be with us.

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Our resort — Alto Atacama

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We rode mountain bikes for the 13 miles to the Cejar Lagoon — it is as salty as the Dead Sea.

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This dog ran the full 13 miles with us. The guide says he does this every day.

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Dugald, Lance, Matt, and Brad before diving into the 55 degree salt water at the lagoon.

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Diving in. Notice the dog came in with us.

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The water was very, very cold. And, the salt burned the eyes. But, we did it!

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Lisa’s version of diving in.

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The pink flamingoes. Arne and Donna Larson, these two are for you.

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The flying flamingoes.

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We bought sweaters from this store in Tocanao. They were made from these llamas.

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The store owner kissing her llama.

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Lisa and Brad on the salt flats in front of an Andes volcano. I know it looks like a green screen shot, but, it’s real.

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Lisa in her yoga pose. She has to do one everywhere we go!

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Our fun, fantastic Exclusive Resorts tour leaders — Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald

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Sunset over the Atacama Salt Flat with a volcano in the background.

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Lisa looking “ruggedly attractive.”

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The Tatio Geysers at sunrise. They are at 15,000 ft above sea level. It was 13 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Brrr.

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The boys standing in the steam from a geyser. Unlike Yellowstone, you can walk right up and look at them.

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Lisa and Hallie warming themselves on a hot rock. Note the smiles as they thaw out somewhat.

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A vicuna — a small animal related to camels and llamas.

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Here we all are in the Puritama Thermal Springs thawing out from our visit to the geysers. The same geologic phenomenon that heats the geysers warms the water here.

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And finally, the now infamous hike. We entered in this “Indiana Jones-like” tunnel. It was about a quarter mile long and unlit. We truly learned the meaning of the phrase “light at the end of the tunnel.”

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Climbing to the top of the ridge we would walk for the next few miles.

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Not to the top yet!

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The view from the ridge. We have never seen anything like this before.

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I think those tracks in the foreground are from the Mars Rover. It really landed here.

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Look at that monstrous sand dune reaching all the way up to the ridge. I joked that we could slide down it if we wanted to. I didn’t realize how, right I would be.

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Starting our way down. I think Lisa is saying, “Brad, what have you gotten me in to!!?”

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Heading down. It’s steep and deep.

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About 10% of the way down. That’s the ridge we were hiking at the top of the photo.

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Everyone has their confidence and is beginning to run down.

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Getting to the bottom. Look at how far up the ridge is from here.

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After a long, satisfying day, we were treated to this beautiful orange sunset back at our resort.

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Crimes, Punishment, and Other Travel Inconveniences

I was detained by Chilean authorities as I attempted to enter the country. They knew they had me. Now all they needed was for me to confess. I hadn’t thought my actions would lead to this. But, now here I was — alone, waiting for the interrogation. . .

Like life, travel doesn’t always go like you might expect or hope. You learn a lot about yourself and others, however, when something does go wrong. Earlier this year, Lisa broke her wrist on a sailing trip, hours from decent medical care. Our friends rallied, sprang into action, and creatively improvised to get her the help she needed. We learned that we have the world’s best friends.

But, problems don’t usually rise to crisis level. Sometimes it is just a relatively minor inconvenience. One of our travel companions, Sharon, is a life coach. She says that people determine their own happiness by the way they respond to the things that happen to them. I think this is right. You can turn a minor irritation into a major negative and bring everyone down. Or, you can roll with it, see the humor in your situation and create an adventure for yourself.

Sharon has personally tested her theory this week. We were in line to check our bags in Buenos Aires for our flight to Mendoza. Sharon said, “I sure hope my bags don’t get lost. I couldn’t survive without the stuff in my luggage.” (foreshadowing). Well, you guessed it. We got to Mendoza and Sharon’s bag was no where to be found. We later learned it went to Chile and is still having the time of its life somewhere in that country. We’re just not sure where. Well, instead of getting angry and ruining her vacation, she has taken the whole thing in stride. The travel gods tested her further when she went to the store to buy some casual shoes. She tried on the left one — it fit — so she bought them and brought them back to the resort. The next morning as we were getting ready to leave for Chile, we heard she and her friend Laura laughing uncontrollably as they came into the breakfast room. We asked what was so funny. She pointed at the shoes and said, “Two left shoes, no right one.”

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Sharon, discovering that she had two left shoes.

I’m not sure I would have had the same patience.

Anyway, you’re probably wondering what this has to do with my trouble getting into Chile. Back to that story.

We landed in Santiago and were transferring to our flight to Calama in the Atacama desert. We had to go through immigration, collect our bags, go through customs, recheck our bags, go back through security, and board our flight to Calama. My issue began when we went through customs.

I handed the agent my customs form and put my bags on that conveyor belt that takes everything through the x-ray. As I was collecting my bags on the other side, one of the agents grabs my backpack and says, “who does this belong to?” I told him it was mine and I came over to see what the problem was. Was I supposed to declare my iPad? Did I leave a dirty pair of underwear in there? Hmmm. He asked, “Do you have any fruit in here?” Uh oh. The nice guide that was with us on our ride to the airport gave us some fruit to bring along because we were going to be traveling through lunch time. I had forgotten that I had thrown contraband in my backpack — (cue dramatic music) an apple. That darned forbidden fruit.

I was immediately ushered over to the area they hold criminals. Lisa looked with panic at her detained spouse. Her parents warned I’d be trouble (I’m sure this was going through her mind at the time). Our tour leader Stephanie threw herself into the fray. She said something in Spanish that I’m sure translated to “I know this guy looks suspicious, but, can you please let him go so we can make our plane?” When that didn’t work I was moved over to another area to answer questions so the customs agent could fill out a form by hand. The form basically said that I claimed no fruit on my customs form and had, in my possession, one apple, .25kg. She showed me the place on the form that indicated this was a misdemeanor and they could lock me up for the better part of the rest of my life. (OK, I exaggerate). I couldn’t deny it because there on the desk, in a plastic baggie to keep whatever ills it contained out of the country, was the evidence — my (cue dramatic music) apple.

Well, after I signed the paper, I was sent back to the holding area and told to wait. There in the waiting area was my fellow traveler and also criminal, Adele. I asked her what she was in for. She had some raisins and nut mix in her possession. Surely that is worse than a single apple. I mean, how many raisins and nuts were in that partial package? Maybe they’ll be satisfied with working her over and letting me go. In the meantime, Stephanie is still working to get us both free. I still couldn’t understand what they were saying (see early blog, Lost in Translation). But, there was a lot of head shaking by the customs guys. I knew that couldn’t be good.

Well, after a while, Adele and I go into a new room and are speaking to separate agents. Mine was a very nice agent who was entering everything on the first form into the computer. She prints it out and proceeds to type something into another form. She asks me if I speak Spanish. I say no and she says her English is not good. I smile and tell her that it’s OK, we can figure it out together. I thought charming her might just work.

Then the customs lady starts the (cue even more dramatic music) interrogation. And, there on the desk was that dreaded baggie with the criminal evidence in it. I’m sunk. I may never see Lisa and the kids again. She gets tough quickly. “Why did you try to bring an apple into the country?” I answer, “Uh, because I thew it in my backpack this morning and forgot it was there.” She says, “Backpack, huh?” I nod. She then fills out a third form on the computer. I looked over and Adele was getting the same third degree questioning from her agent. But, she had tears in her eyes. “Oh, no,” I think. I can’t compete with crying. They’ll book me for sure. Meanwhile, Stephanie was standing outside peeking in to make sure no Geneva Convention rules were being violated.

After the nice agent finishes all the forms she prints them, stamps them, and puts them down in front of me. The first one was a list of the charges — attempting to bring one apple, .25kg, into the country. The second, my confession. The third, my permission to destroy the offending fruit. Since the apple baggie was still sitting on the desk staring at me, I had no choice but to sign.

She then puts a card in front of me that says the minimum fine was $200 US dollars. Whoa, that is the most expensive apple I never got to eat. I begin to reach for my credit card when she say, “No. Since this is your first offense we will charge you nothing.” You are free to go.

“Free? To go? You mean I can see my wife and kids again?” She smiles and nods. I walk out where Adele, her husband Stephen, and Stephanie are waiting. There are ten minutes before our flight is scheduled to leave. Let’s go! As we are heading up the elevator, Stephanie tells me we can catch the next flight in just over an hour. I said, “If we hurry, we can catch this one.” She gave me one of those “Oh you poor, foolish soul” looks and said, “perhaps.” Stephanie is always so polite.

As we got to the check in line there was Lisa waiting for me with our luggage. I had hoped she would have gone ahead and boarded the earlier flight, but, I was so happy to see her. She told me she would never leave without me.

Anyway, Stephanie, Adele, Stephen, Lisa and I had a nice lunch in the airport as we waited for the next flight. We laughed about our plight and vowed never again to carry fruit when we travel. You see, travel, like life, is what you make of it. Things may not always go the way you expect them or want them to go. But, no matter what, it can be an adventure. Enjoy the ride.

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Adele and I with our criminal papers.

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Mendoza — Wine Country by the Mountains

A serious change of pace.

We left the hustle-bustle of Buenos Aires by plane for our two-hour flight to Mendoza. The distance was more than the few hundred miles we flew. Mendoza sits in the shadow of the Andes Mountains in the northeastern part of Argentina. Mt. Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere at 22,837 ft. above sea level. For context, the tallest mountains in Colorado are a mere 14,000+ ft. While Buenos Aires had that European flair, Mendoza is notably Latin American with a Southwestern US feel.

We drove out of town and into wine country to our lodging at the Cavas Wine Lodge. Our accommodations were individual adobe and stone villas set among the vineyards with spectacular views of the Andes. The unique architecture features a funny-looking chimney and rooftop deck. They are such cozy little places that we weren’t sure we wanted to leave our villa for the many events we had scheduled.

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One of the villas with the Andes mountains in the background.

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The villas among the vineyards. Note the lack of growth on the vines. We’re still in early Spring before bud break.

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The very old vines on the property.

After a delicious lunch we unpacked and relaxed for a bit on the rooftop deck. I might have relaxed a bit too much:

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We got a cooking class before dinner from the lodge’s great chef. Our first lesson was in making empanadas, a traditional Argentine appetizer. Empanadas are pastries with delicious fillings. Ours had beef, green olives, paprika, grilled vegetables, and many herbs. The Argentines are very good at creating foods with complex flavors. Our chef was no exception. OK, these things taste great. But, making them certainly isn’t as easy as it looks. Our group was less than supportive as my every attempt at rolling up the edge of the dough into the perfectly twisted seal failed miserably. My only consolation was that Lisa was only marginally better than I was. For our friends expecting empanadas when you visit, watch for the Trader Joe’s version.

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The chefs ready to teach their eager subjects.

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The, uh, eager subjects.

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Myla helping to make the veggies for the empanadas.

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Chef folding his empanada perfectly.

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Our group struggling to do what chef just showed us.

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Lisa’s art work.

Wine Tasting

The next morning we arose for a full day of hiking, biking, horseback riding and, of course, wine tasting. Lisa and I were really looking forward to the activity because, to be truthful, we have been consuming many more calories than we’ve been burning. We couldn’t remember the last time we had been hungry. We drove over to the Uco Valley. It sits between the foothills and the Andes and is considered the Napa Valley of Argentina. While the roads are not yet very developed — many are still dirt — the wine industry is revving up. We hiked, biked, and had a wonderful picnic overlooking the valley. We then headed over to one of the prominent wineries in the region for a tasting.

Grape vines were brought to Mendoza 500 years ago by the Europeans. So winemaking isn’t new to the region. But, for many years it was a local industry. During the mid-1900s winemaking ramped up but the quality was less than desirable. They started to improve the quality in the 1970s, but, the region took a major hit in what was known locally as the “Beer Crisis”. Sounds innocuous enough, but, when Argentines began switching to other drinks, such as beer, the industry nearly collapsed (Brad Collins, we blame you). Many old vintners simply went out of business. But, in the end, this worked out well for the region as new winemakers moved in with a resolve to improve the quality. By the late 1990s Mendoza was becoming known throughout the world. And, when the dot com bubble burst, the global recession and devalued peso allowed the vintners to sell their high-quality product to other countries at a great price. Malbec, the dominant grape in the region had been used by the French as a blending grape in their Bordeaux wines. But the Argentines turned it into a global phenomenon as a grape that could stand on its own.

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Lisa and I overlooking the Uco Valley.

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Our traveling companions

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The Hikers

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Picnic Lunch

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Gorgeous Setting for Lunch

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Traditional Argentine Dancers and Musicians at Lunch

After lunch, we went to a local winery named Piattelli. The wine was exceptional and the winemaker was a joy to talk to and learn from. The best part of the experience was learning a new wine-tasting game! All we will tell you is that it involves blind tasting wine, placing bets, and winning prizes. You can look forward to playing this game at our house at an upcoming party!

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The Piattelli Winemaker giving us a tour

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Blind Wine-Tasting Game.

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Lisa and Sonja trying to guess their wine.

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Lisa is not too happy about Dugald beating her out at the end of the game!

We still had one more excursion in us this evening before the day was done. A group of us went to the restaurant 1884 in the town of Mendoza. 1884 is run by renowned chef Francis Mallman and has been voted one of the best restaurants in Argentina. The food was delicious although the portion sizes could have fed four people with each serving. The best part of the evening was being able to dine with Dana Wilke, a family friend from Danville, who is studying abroad here with a program with UC Davis. She is just starting her program and has plans to have a wonderful adventure here while taking five classes entirely in Spanish. All in all, we loved Mendoza and could easily spend a few more days here discovering all that this area has to offer.

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Dinner at 1884 with Dana Wilke

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