Posts Tagged With: Travel

A Day in Cape Town — Prisoners, Their Guard, and a Hike up Table Mountain

“I set off a bomb at a military building. I didn’t want to kill anyone and no one died. But, I made a statement about apartheid,” said Mabaso. Thulani Mabaso was a prisoner at Robben Island, a flat round island in the bay seven miles from Cape Town. He was imprisoned when he was 19 and finally freed when Nelson Mandela negotiated the release of all Pocahontas prisoners in 1991 — 12 years later.

Mabaso was our tour guide at Robben Island. He was articulate and passionate as he led our group through the prison where Nelson Mandela spent 17 of his 28 years in prison. All of us were riveted at his emotional recollections of Mandela and the conditions at the prison.

We saw the place where prisoners were processed into the prison. They were stripped, searched (in the only places that can be searched when one is naked), and issued clothing. The black prisoners were made to wear shorts to remind them the oppressive system of apartheid viewed them as mere “boys.” Leaders like Mandela were placed in a 6 ft. by 6 ft. cell with a mat as a bed, three blankets, and a bucket to use as a toilet.

Mabaso was quite proud that he was given a master key to the prison, an item he would have prized while incarcerated there. He planned to open the cell where Mandela had stayed. He bragged that other tour groups were only allowed to peek in.

While at Robben Island, Mabaso, like all political prisoners, was tortured. They beat him, cut him, forced him to eat his feces, and many other unspeakable acts. Family had to make arrangements to visit prisoners six months in advance. The prisoners, however, didn’t know about the visit until shortly before it occurred. Then they could only visit for 30 minutes with a glass wall between them. Once, Mabaso was told his father was coming to see him in a couple of days. He was so excited. When the time came for his father’s visit, he was brought to the warden’s office. They told him that he would be receiving no visitors that day. His father had been shot seven times and killed in his driveway the day before. They laughed at him and taunted him. He returned to his cell and cried.

When Mandela became president of South Africa in 1995, he closed Robben Island as a prison and converted it into a museum so the country would always remember. During the reunion of political prisoners that followed, Mabaso said he rose the ferry out to the island, but, he couldn’t force himself to get off. Once everyone else had exited, a crewman told him he had to disembark. He forced himself off. It was a highly emotional moment as the memories of his abuse came flooding back.

He then walked us to B section, the place where Mandela was imprisoned. We were able to enter his tiny cell. Mandela was about 6’4″ so he couldn’t even fully stretch out when he laid down on his mat. The prison only held Black (Bantu) and Coloured (Indians, mixed race, Asians) prisoners. White prisoners were held elsewhere. Black prisoners were given far fewer privileges, including a more sparse diet. Lisa and I have been reading Mandela’s autobiography, Long Walk to Freedom. It was incredible to us to see in person the place he described so vividly. We walked into the cell and sat on his mat. We could feel his presence there. I imagined what 17 years in this place would be like.

The daily schedule was unchanged. The were awakened, lights on at 5:30am; they were let out of their cells to clean their buckets at 6:45 am; they then ate a meager breakfast. The were chained up and walked to the limestone quarry about a mile away where they worked at breaking up and moving stone that would not be used for anything. At 4:00 they returned and took cold seawater showers that cleaned off the dirt and sweat but made them itchy from the salt. Mabaso said he read about Colgate soap that reduced the itching effect of the seawater. It worked and he said he still uses it today. The were then fed dinner and put back in their cells only to do it all over again the next day. They had Sundays off, but, Mabaso said it was the longest day of the week because they stayed in their cells most of the day.

Mabaso told us that the view of Table Mountain from Robben Island kept him sane. He once said that he would climb to the top of that mountain some day. A guard overheard him and said, “In your dreams.” Shortly after his release in 1991, Mabaso climbed Table Mountain. He said his dream had come true.

President Obama came to visit Robben Island during his visit to South Africa. Mabaso was there to coordinate the event and help lead him around the prison. A very proud day for him. You can read more about Thulani Mabaso’s story here: https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/apartheid-in-south-africa

Speaking of climbing Table Mountain, Lisa and I did just that later the same day. The mountain is steep and rocky. The 2 1/2-mile, 2500 foot climb took us a little less than 2 hours, and ensured we slept very well last night! Our guide, Ross, looked straight out of central casting and was a fantastic educator on flora, fauna and trail tips. We were hot and sweaty for most of the steep, rocky climb. But, as we neared the summit, the winds picked up and the temperature dropped substantially. That caused us all to become a bit chilled as we waited for the tram rise down. Still, the views from the top were spectacular and we felt a tremendous sense of accomplishment as we posed for selfies in celebration.

Categories: Africa, Safari, South Africa, Travel | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Face to Face with Sharks

When we received our itinerary in the mail a month before our trip, we were asked to choose between shark cage diving or a day of wine tasting. I quickly chose wine tasting and Brad immediately chose the sharks! So….in the spirit of marital compromise and a bit of adventure, we went with the shark cage diving. After all, our daughter Amanda had done it when she was on Semester at Sea in Cape Town. She chose the cheapest one she could find to save us a little money. That was not our intention for this trip. Never skimp on your shark cage!

When we arrived on the trip, I was chagrined to find out that no one else had chosen the shark diving. The rest of the group was going to spend a stressless day up in Wine Country. We had to leave at 6:00 am and they left at 9:00 am. One of our travel mates played the Jaws theme song for us on the way back home from dinner to get us in the mood. I was questioning whether we had chosen wisely.

Six am rolled around and we headed out with a wonderful driver named Satish. He was a wealth of information about Cape Town and the region. We went through beautiful sections of the city and looked up at the majesty of Table Mountain. Before long, we were passing through shanty towns similar to Soweto and people standing out on the streets looking for day labor jobs. The unemployment rate here is around 30% so getting work is a constant struggle. I still can’t get my head around the immense poverty and the conditions of the shanty towns here in South Africa.

We arrived at our destination, the Dyer Island Conservation Trust. They are the only shark diving company that is also involved in conservation efforts so we were happy about that. I was nervous. My brother, Bob, had been texting me on the drive to the sharks to make sure to keep my fingers and toes inside the cage, etc. You know how brothers are. He had also been shark diving here with his son Jordan.

When we went up to the briefing room, we were surrounded by 20- and 30-somethings. No sane people our age apparently sign up for this sort of thing. They were all in the touring boat that watches us shark dive!

Off we went with our waterproof orange parkas out to sea to find the sharks. The seagulls knew what was up and followed us all the way out to the shark-infested area.

When we got to our spot, we were given wet suits and Brad and I were promptly put into the first cage. No time to turn back now! I thought the cages would be completely meshed over so there was no opportunity to put my hands or feet out. That is not the case. There are large holes where you could reach out your hand and/or a shark could stick in his snout. Again, I was questioning our choice.

The crew began to throw in the chum to attract the sharks and the show began. Chum is a mixture of fish oils and parts. We learned we should keep our mouths shut while the chum is going in. We bobbed up and down going under the water looking at the sharks as they came right up to our cage. One of them was so close that his fin brushed against me. The sharks were actually well-behaved and reminded me ( a little) of swimming with the dolphins. They were just cruising together with their buddies and eating the chum and the bait. No attacking us in the cage. I quickly realized my fears were all for nothing and actually started enjoying the whole experience.

Our twenty minutes in the tank were up and we got on board so the other “youngsters” could get in the water. The hardest part of the morning was trying to get out of our wet suits in a very small bathroom while bobbing up and down in the restless seas. That process took as long as being in the ocean with the sharks did!

We saw mostly 6- to 10-foot copper sharks also known as bronze whaler sharks. Our guide on the boat got quite excited when a seven gilled cow shark approached the boat. Apparently, they are very rare and she has only seen one once before. Brad was down in the bathroom struggling with his wet suit so he didn’t get to participate in all of the seven gill cow shark excitement. We didn’t see any Great White Sharks on this trip. Their numbers are down a little in South Africa and like everything in nature, they are unpredictable.

All in all, it was quite a fun adventure. We topped it off with a wonderful sea side lunch in the town of Hermanus and toasted our morning with an Old Harbor Lager. We can mark shark cage diving off the list because next time given the choice, we are going Wine-Tasting!!

Categories: Travel | Tags: , , , | 3 Comments

The Circle of Life

She suddenly stood at attention. Each one of her senses heightened. A storm was coming. The perfect time for the female leopard to find a meal for her 6-month old cub. The winds mask her scent from prey and makes it harder to hear her footsteps. We were on our final safari excursion last night when Ruth, our guide, got a radio message that the mother leopard had been located. She wasn’t far from us and it didn’t take long to find her. Soon after she came to attention she crouched down and started moving in a deliberate way through the long grass of the savannah.

It is late Spring in the African bush. Impalas, which are like small deer, are everywhere. The females are delivering their babies in droves. We had seen several new mothers and their babies over the past couple of day. Impala mothers separate from the herd when they deliver and they stay alone with their fawn for about three days to allow the mother to imprint on their newborn. The babies are able to walk within only a few minutes. But, of course, they are slower and less agile than they will be as they grow. A new mother with her fawn was hiding in the tall grass and shrubs about 200 yards from us.

Leopards are very patient hunters. They are extremely fast but don’t have great stamina. So, they work to get as close as possible without detection before they pounce. Impalas too are fast. They are also more agile than their predators. Still, with a baby in tow, mothers are far more vulnerable.

The leopard stopped and surveyed the situation. She had moved to within 100 yards of her target and was determining her next move.

She then began her move. She stealthily crept closer at a measured pace.

We had a vantage point that allowed us to see both the leopard and the impalas. The mother impala was frozen. She knew that escape would be a challenge. When the leopard got within about 25 yards she sprinted toward the impalas. Mother and baby ran behind a large rock closely followed by the leopard. We thought for sure the leopard had caught one or the other. But, they eluded the leopard by making a 90 degree turn and they came running back from behind the rock in the other direction.

As we watched all of this develop we couldn’t help but wonder whose side we were on. On one hand we wanted the mother and baby to survive. They were cute and vulnerable. On the other hand the leopard was hunting for her baby and without food, it would surely die. We were mere spectators as intervening on behalf of one or the other isn’t morally proper. Nature can be cruel and difficult to accept, but, the circle of life requires this drama to be played out.

Seconds later the leopard caught the baby impala. We heard a small shriek and it was over. The mother, who had escaped, looked on from a distance with what we interpreted as a deep sadness.

As the storm clouds grew closer the leopard began her trek back to her cub’s den. She traveled about a half mile as we followed. It is fascinating the way these animals pay absolutely no attention to us. They do not see people in Land Cruisers as a threat. We were nothing more than a part of the landscape to her.

The leopard reached a clearing and set down her kill. She made a bleating call to her cub and waited. The winds continued to blow hard and the cub did not appear. At six-months old, it is beginning to wander off and likely did not hear her. The mother leopard began to look anxious. It isn’t unusual for a group of hyenas to follow a leopard and steal their prey. While the leopard could surely fight off a single hyena, they are no match for more than one. Her cub still didn’t appear. She picked up the fawn and continued to head south.

The bush is spotted with termite mounds. They range from a couple of feet to ten feet high. Many are abandoned and used as dens by mongoose, warthogs and other smaller animals. The leopard headed toward a termite mound situated next to a large tree. She climbed to the top of the mound. There she seemed to relax. From this perch she could see any approaching hyenas and should they come, she could climb the tree. Leopards are strong climbers and can carry over 200 pounds up a tree so the fawn provided no challenge should she need to ascend.

Mother leopard continued to bleat (that’s the only word that I can think of to describe the sound) for her cub. But, as she relaxed, she also began to clean herself not unlike a house cat does.

The cub still did not appear. She laid down and continued to wait. The thunderstorms grew close with lighting strikes and thunder. As the sun began to set and the storm upon us, we decided to head back to our lodge.

As we drove back to camp we hoped that the cub was okay. This morning we heard that it was spotted in the same area we had left its mother the night before. I assume it had a full belly.

The circle of life continues.

Categories: Africa, Safari, South Africa, Travel | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

Things We Learned on our First Safari

Brad and I are in Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve experiencing our first safari and enjoying every second of it. Here are a few things we have learned so far. In no particular order whatsoever.

— Safaris happen when the animals are most active. This means that you get up at the crack of dawn, rest during the middle of the day, and go back out in the evening. Because you are out for three and four hour stretches, they do require that you plan ahead for your beverage management. For me, that means maybe only a half cup of coffee before we go! Yikes!

— Be prepared to gain five pounds. The dining schedule goes like this.

5:30 am: Light Breakfast

9:00 am: Hearty Breakfast

1:00 pm: Lunch

4:00 pm: Afternoon High Tea

6:30: Cocktail while watching the sunset in the Savannah

7:30: Pre-dinner drinks in bar

8:00: Dinner

— Have your camera at the ready at all times. Impala, Kudu, and Warthogs have joined us at the lodge and at our patios. Apparently, just recently an elephant was found on the roof of our lodge!

— You will be escorted to your room by a guide when it gets dark. You don’t want to become someone’s midnight snack!

— Safaris can be relaxing. There are hundreds of species of birds here and their songs are very peaceful. I may have become a “birder” on this trip and could be joining Mary Frandsen in her love and appreciation of birds. Sorry Brad and Mike!

— Safaris can be joyous. We witnessed the birth of a baby impala and watched her take her first steps. She wobbled and fell down several times at the beginning but with her Mother’s encouragement she was up and running in about five minutes. It was joyful.

— Safaris can be intense. Think the Indiana Jones ride in Disneyland on steroids. We got a call that there was a wild dog siting one morning and our guide, Ruth, sped so fast in the pouring rain that we may or may not have almost lost Mary Stevens out the back of the Jeep once or twice!

Safaris can be heart-stopping. We came upon a leopard yesterday and he came within five feet of our Jeep in his effort to go find dinner. A few of us in the Jeep stopped breathing for a moment or two.

— Shamans are real. We visited a shaman in the nearby village and she predicted our group would see a leopard and within thirty minutes on the ride home we all encountered our first leopard. He had been eluding us for days.

— African children are loving and are eager to pose for photos and give you hugs. We spent a morning at several nearby schools and were completely overwhelmed by the children’s hugs and smiles.

— Mothers are the heroes of the Savannah but also can be the most vulnerable. The gestational periods for elephants can be up to 22 months , the Rhino up to 15-16, while the hippo and impala are only 6-8 months. The Lionesses have cubs in only 110 days. The Mothers we saw were very protective of their young while the male species were off galavanting or possibly watching football! Sadly, Mothers and Babies can also be prey because they are the most vulnerable especially after they have just given birth.

— There is an incredible diversity of animals and birds on the Savannah and they even provide you a check list to mark them off! I love lists so it has been great fun. So far, I have checked off 24 animal species including animals I had never heard of like Kudus, Bushbucks, and Duikers. We have also checked off 32 species of beautiful, colorful birds with names like the Square-Tailed Nightjar, the Red-Billed Oxpecker, and the Lilac-breasted Roller.

— We saw the Big Five and are allowed to go off road to follow them. So far, we have seen Lions, Rhinos, Cape Buffalo, Elephant, and our elusive Leopard. Following a leopard as he went after a kill might be one of the most exciting animal experiences I have ever heard. We have been close to seeing the Magnificent Seven which include all the Big Five, Wild Dogs, and Cheetah. All we need to do is find that rarely-sighted Cheetah.

— Bush Walks have their own element of excitement. We went out today with two guides whose rifles were loaded and told us what to do if we happened to run upon a lion or elephants. The rules are no walking and talking and no running away or screaming if we happen upon a large animal. While we were on foot, we chanced upon an elephant, a hippo, and more kudu. Not your average walk around the property!!

Our guide and tracker are passionate and incredibly knowledgeable. Our guide, Ruth is a 23 year old woman from CapeTown who has a love of the Savannah that is unparalleled. Her knowledge of every living creature that we have encountered is astounding. She is willing to pick up Elephant Dung and show us everything the elephants have had for breakfast as well as telling us colorful mating stories of African Crake (The males stick around in this story). Dollen, our tracker can sight a Serval in the high grass in the dark or a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl in a dense tree from afar. His sensory perception is unreal. We have felt fortunate to have Ruth and Dollen as our team this week. It is going to be hard to say good-bye tomorrow. There will be tears.

Here are a sampling of other animals we saw along the way:

Categories: Africa, Safari, South Africa, Travel | Tags: , , , , , , | 9 Comments

The Mighty Himalayas

On Tuesday, Nov 3, Brad and I are heading out for a two week journey to the Himalayan countries. We’ll visit Thailand, Bhutan, China, and Tibet.  The wonderful team through Exclusive Resorts will be our travel guide and have given us our packing lists, visas, and tons of advice on how to sleep at high altitude!  We will be traveling from Bangkok at sea level to over 14,000 feet in Tibet.  Packing for this adventure is a challenge as well since the current temperature in Bangkok is 92 degrees and in Lhasa, Tibet it is 36 degrees with snow showers!  Packing only 44 lbs of luggage for such different climates could be our first real test of the trip!

We chose the Himalayas because it brought together hiking, spiritual and cultural events, and just plain breath-taking views for Brad to photograph!  We also hope to go to a lot of markets and add to the canvas food pictures on our kitchen wall.  I personally am looking forward to meeting with an astrologer, learning about Tibetan medicine and buddhism, and taking an archery lesson among all of the other site-seeing opportunities.  It’s going to be a trip we won’t soon forget!

Our original trip was to include Nepal but we no longer can visit there because of the devastating earthquake that hit the country last spring.  We had friends on that journey and were following them via Facebook.  They were in the airport the day the earthquake hit and were able to leave five hours later. They were, however, definitely affected by the quake and how close they came to being in a disaster of epic proportions.  We are saddened that we still cannot visit Nepal because the infrastructure is not capable of hosting tourists yet.  We know that this must be devastating to the economy and people of Nepal.

We will try our very best to keep you posted about our journeys via this blog but we have been told that some of the countries we will visit won’t allow us to post via Facebook (What? The horror!) and the internet.  When I called AT&T yesterday to get extra international coverage, they let me know that they really don’t have an international service plan where we are going so we should try not to use our phones unless there is a true emergency!  I guess we really will be off the grid!

We have published our itinerary on the side of this blog so you can follow where we are during the next two weeks.  At this point, they are just words and names on an itinerary to us as we have never been to any of these places before and have only briefly read our travel books.  (I’m not sure that Brad even knows exactly what day and time we are leaving yet!)  Those of you who have followed us before know that our trips have had many interesting twists and turns from Brad being detained in Chile for a contraband apple to Lisa getting a fish massage in Cambodia and, of course, to Brad’s infamous $2.50 haircut.  (They are in previous posts if you are interested!)  Who knows what mishaps lie ahead!

Enjoy the journey with us!

Brad and Lisa

Categories: Asia, Travel | Tags: , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Final Thoughts on our Trip to Argentina and Chile

Group Travel is not for everyone.  Sometimes there are schedules and early wake-up calls and tours that might not be of interest. Sometimes you have the loss of spontaneity that you get when you travel alone.    But if you travel with a group like we just did, you will find yourself having adventures that you never thought you would experience and go to places that you have never heard of.  When we signed on for this trip, we were excited about visiting Buenos Aires and Santiago;  we had read about these two cities and had seen many photographs.  As everyone knows, we love our wine so we knew that Mendoza would be a favorite for the both of us.  Drinking Malbec at the base of the Andes Mountains?  A no-brainer.

But we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert.  We had no idea what to expect; the itinerary suggested some hiking in the mountains and we thought that would be fun because we like to hike.  Little did we know that we would get to see landscapes so unreal that we thought we were in a movie set of Star Wars or Indiana Jones; or  that we would experience bubbling, sizzling geysers as we watched the sunrise in the Andes; or view the clearest night skies we have ever seen.   And, of course, we never dreamed we would run down a steep sand dune giggling and whooping it up like a bunch of children!

Another thing that happens on a group trip is that you form some wonderful friendships and bonds over the course of ten days.  We didn’t know any of the 22 people on our trip before we arrived but now we have lasting memories with each of them.  We all shared a love of travel and adventure but beyond that we all lived very different lives all throughout various parts of the country.  Because of this trip, we can now say we have tangoed together in Buenos Aires, discovered a secret speak-easy disguised as a floral shop, discussed art with an influential Buenos Aires Painter, played a Blind Wine-Tasting Game at the foot of the Andes, biked and hiked in Mendoza, were detained in a Chilean airport (ok…just Adele and Brad can say that), experienced the sunrise with bubbling geysers,  went star-gazing in the Southern Hemisphere, and ran down the steepest sand dune in the Atacama Desert.   Our last lunch was evidence of the bond we all formed as we made toast after toast to all of the fun things we did and our fantastic guides. Ten days ago we were strangers.  We now have a bond that will last a lifetime.

A group trip is only as good as its leaders and we had the good fortune of having a team that cared for our well-being every turn of the way.  Stephanie and Hallie from Blue Parallel worked tirelessly behind the scenes so we didn’t have to worry about anything.  Each of them could have been the same age as some of our children; yet they were the ones working hard to make sure that lost luggage was found and all of our dietary issues (and there were a lot) were cared for at each restaurant and dinner.  The moms of the group were all worried that Stephanie could never finish her meal for having to deal with various issues in the group and kept urging her to eat and rest more!  Stephanie had the patience of a saint and was always smiling and polite (there’s that word again) as the daily itineraries were changed or flights were missed because someone had an apple in his pack!

And then there was Dugald, our leader from Exclusive Resorts.  He was there with a devilish grin urging people to dive in to the freezing cold salt lagoon, run up a cactus-filled hill, or sprint down a steep sand dune– always in good spirit and filled with zest and enthusiasm.  He was a friend to us all,  always asking for feedback and checking in with how the trip was going.

Needless to say, because of all these bonds there were a few tears and lots of hugs when we had to say good-bye to everyone at the Santiago Airport.  We feel very fortunate to have been able to go on this trip with these people.  Memories like these can’t be made in a Frommers Guidebook, National Geographic, or an Internet Travel Site.  They must be savored and enjoyed with a Pisco Sour and a run down a sand dune!

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald:  Our Fearless Leaders

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald: Our Fearless Leaders

The Group

The Group

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | 3 Comments

The Atacama Desert — Earth, Wind, Fire, and Water (a little bit)

The driest place on Earth.

The Atacama desert in northern Chile receives less rainfall than the Mojave desert, the Sahara desert, and anywhere else on the planet. The wetter area, where we are staying, receives 1 to 2 inches of rain per year. Other places in the region get a mere drop of precipitation. Most of the water for the region comes in the form of snowmelt running off from the Andes Mountains to the east.

We landed on Thursday (after the apple caper) in Calama. We felt like we had traveled to another planet. There was no vegetation whatsoever for miles. When we finally saw green, it was in the form of little stubby brush sparsely sprinkled on the landscape. As we traveled throughout the area in the next couple of days, we found it to be extremely diverse. Part Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom; part Start Wars in the original movie; and, we’re convinced that the Mars Rover actually landed here in another part of the desert.

We’re in the high desert — about 8,000 feet above sea level. The mountains surrounding us rise to 18,000 feet. The area is dominated by volcanoes. In fact, there are 150 active volcanoes in Chile — 10% of the world’s active volcanoes. Several are visible from our vantage point.

It is difficult for us to convey the magnificence of this place. The pictures don’t even do it justice. The population consists of miners (one of the largest copper mining areas in the world) and indigenous people who have been here for thousands of years. The area is geologically active; and, the landscape varies greatly. Our resort is in an oasis that is fed by one of the few precious rivers that flow from the Andes.

We started in the Atacama Salt Flats. Pink flamingoes thrive here on the brine shrimp that are the only marine life in the salt lagoons. We got up very early one morning to see the Tatio Geysers that sit at 15,000 feet above sea level in the mountains. We moved on to the Puritama Thermal Hot Springs for a dip; we watched the sun set on the mountains with colors changing from brown to pink to red. At night we went stargazing. Because of the altitude, the dry air, and the lack of city lights, this is one of the best places in the world for observatories. The Milky Way was prominent, looking like hazy clouds in the sky (for you, Laura Kapp). We saw the Magellenic Clouds for the first time ever since they sit deep in the southern sky and can’t be seen from the Northern Hemisphere.

We then went on one of the most amazing hikes we’ve ever done. Climbing to the top of a ridge, we had a spectacular view of — I’m not sure how to describe it — the jagged red peaks near our resort. We traversed the ridge until we came upon the largest sand dunes we’ve ever seen. The sand literally climbed to the top of the cliffs on the ridge we were hiking.

The guide suddenly stopped and said to us, “we’ll go down here.” Uh, where? There was nothing but giant, steep dunes over the cliff for as far as we could see. “Here,” he said. Down the sand. Whoa. The looks on all the faces of the people in our group were simply stunned. One said, “Where is the other way down. I’m not going down there.” Lisa asked me to stay right with her and hold her hand. Most just kept an uncomfortable look on their faces and stayed silent.

One by one people stepped off the cliff and onto the sand dune. It was soft and deep. Soon we were all slipping and sliding and gliding and running down this steep sand pile. An entire group of fifty-somethings started whooping and hollering like 12-year olds. It was the most amazing hiking experience we’ve ever had. When we got to the bottom we were all exhilarated, high-fiving and laughing out loud. We emptied our shoes of the five pounds of sand that had accumulated in them and hiked out the bottom of the canyon. We drank a well-deserved Chilean beer and toasted our accomplishment.

Take some time to review the photos below. Even though they don’t fully do the region justice — it is so spectacular in person — you’ll get an idea of what we experienced. Before coming here, we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert. This once-in-a-lifetime experience will now forever be with us.

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Our resort — Alto Atacama

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We rode mountain bikes for the 13 miles to the Cejar Lagoon — it is as salty as the Dead Sea.

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This dog ran the full 13 miles with us. The guide says he does this every day.

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Dugald, Lance, Matt, and Brad before diving into the 55 degree salt water at the lagoon.

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Diving in. Notice the dog came in with us.

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The water was very, very cold. And, the salt burned the eyes. But, we did it!

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Lisa’s version of diving in.

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The pink flamingoes. Arne and Donna Larson, these two are for you.

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The flying flamingoes.

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We bought sweaters from this store in Tocanao. They were made from these llamas.

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The store owner kissing her llama.

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Lisa and Brad on the salt flats in front of an Andes volcano. I know it looks like a green screen shot, but, it’s real.

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Lisa in her yoga pose. She has to do one everywhere we go!

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Our fun, fantastic Exclusive Resorts tour leaders — Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald

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Sunset over the Atacama Salt Flat with a volcano in the background.

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Lisa looking “ruggedly attractive.”

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The Tatio Geysers at sunrise. They are at 15,000 ft above sea level. It was 13 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Brrr.

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The boys standing in the steam from a geyser. Unlike Yellowstone, you can walk right up and look at them.

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Lisa and Hallie warming themselves on a hot rock. Note the smiles as they thaw out somewhat.

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A vicuna — a small animal related to camels and llamas.

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Here we all are in the Puritama Thermal Springs thawing out from our visit to the geysers. The same geologic phenomenon that heats the geysers warms the water here.

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And finally, the now infamous hike. We entered in this “Indiana Jones-like” tunnel. It was about a quarter mile long and unlit. We truly learned the meaning of the phrase “light at the end of the tunnel.”

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Climbing to the top of the ridge we would walk for the next few miles.

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Not to the top yet!

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The view from the ridge. We have never seen anything like this before.

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I think those tracks in the foreground are from the Mars Rover. It really landed here.

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Look at that monstrous sand dune reaching all the way up to the ridge. I joked that we could slide down it if we wanted to. I didn’t realize how, right I would be.

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Starting our way down. I think Lisa is saying, “Brad, what have you gotten me in to!!?”

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Heading down. It’s steep and deep.

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About 10% of the way down. That’s the ridge we were hiking at the top of the photo.

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Everyone has their confidence and is beginning to run down.

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Getting to the bottom. Look at how far up the ridge is from here.

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After a long, satisfying day, we were treated to this beautiful orange sunset back at our resort.

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Crimes, Punishment, and Other Travel Inconveniences

I was detained by Chilean authorities as I attempted to enter the country. They knew they had me. Now all they needed was for me to confess. I hadn’t thought my actions would lead to this. But, now here I was — alone, waiting for the interrogation. . .

Like life, travel doesn’t always go like you might expect or hope. You learn a lot about yourself and others, however, when something does go wrong. Earlier this year, Lisa broke her wrist on a sailing trip, hours from decent medical care. Our friends rallied, sprang into action, and creatively improvised to get her the help she needed. We learned that we have the world’s best friends.

But, problems don’t usually rise to crisis level. Sometimes it is just a relatively minor inconvenience. One of our travel companions, Sharon, is a life coach. She says that people determine their own happiness by the way they respond to the things that happen to them. I think this is right. You can turn a minor irritation into a major negative and bring everyone down. Or, you can roll with it, see the humor in your situation and create an adventure for yourself.

Sharon has personally tested her theory this week. We were in line to check our bags in Buenos Aires for our flight to Mendoza. Sharon said, “I sure hope my bags don’t get lost. I couldn’t survive without the stuff in my luggage.” (foreshadowing). Well, you guessed it. We got to Mendoza and Sharon’s bag was no where to be found. We later learned it went to Chile and is still having the time of its life somewhere in that country. We’re just not sure where. Well, instead of getting angry and ruining her vacation, she has taken the whole thing in stride. The travel gods tested her further when she went to the store to buy some casual shoes. She tried on the left one — it fit — so she bought them and brought them back to the resort. The next morning as we were getting ready to leave for Chile, we heard she and her friend Laura laughing uncontrollably as they came into the breakfast room. We asked what was so funny. She pointed at the shoes and said, “Two left shoes, no right one.”

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Sharon, discovering that she had two left shoes.

I’m not sure I would have had the same patience.

Anyway, you’re probably wondering what this has to do with my trouble getting into Chile. Back to that story.

We landed in Santiago and were transferring to our flight to Calama in the Atacama desert. We had to go through immigration, collect our bags, go through customs, recheck our bags, go back through security, and board our flight to Calama. My issue began when we went through customs.

I handed the agent my customs form and put my bags on that conveyor belt that takes everything through the x-ray. As I was collecting my bags on the other side, one of the agents grabs my backpack and says, “who does this belong to?” I told him it was mine and I came over to see what the problem was. Was I supposed to declare my iPad? Did I leave a dirty pair of underwear in there? Hmmm. He asked, “Do you have any fruit in here?” Uh oh. The nice guide that was with us on our ride to the airport gave us some fruit to bring along because we were going to be traveling through lunch time. I had forgotten that I had thrown contraband in my backpack — (cue dramatic music) an apple. That darned forbidden fruit.

I was immediately ushered over to the area they hold criminals. Lisa looked with panic at her detained spouse. Her parents warned I’d be trouble (I’m sure this was going through her mind at the time). Our tour leader Stephanie threw herself into the fray. She said something in Spanish that I’m sure translated to “I know this guy looks suspicious, but, can you please let him go so we can make our plane?” When that didn’t work I was moved over to another area to answer questions so the customs agent could fill out a form by hand. The form basically said that I claimed no fruit on my customs form and had, in my possession, one apple, .25kg. She showed me the place on the form that indicated this was a misdemeanor and they could lock me up for the better part of the rest of my life. (OK, I exaggerate). I couldn’t deny it because there on the desk, in a plastic baggie to keep whatever ills it contained out of the country, was the evidence — my (cue dramatic music) apple.

Well, after I signed the paper, I was sent back to the holding area and told to wait. There in the waiting area was my fellow traveler and also criminal, Adele. I asked her what she was in for. She had some raisins and nut mix in her possession. Surely that is worse than a single apple. I mean, how many raisins and nuts were in that partial package? Maybe they’ll be satisfied with working her over and letting me go. In the meantime, Stephanie is still working to get us both free. I still couldn’t understand what they were saying (see early blog, Lost in Translation). But, there was a lot of head shaking by the customs guys. I knew that couldn’t be good.

Well, after a while, Adele and I go into a new room and are speaking to separate agents. Mine was a very nice agent who was entering everything on the first form into the computer. She prints it out and proceeds to type something into another form. She asks me if I speak Spanish. I say no and she says her English is not good. I smile and tell her that it’s OK, we can figure it out together. I thought charming her might just work.

Then the customs lady starts the (cue even more dramatic music) interrogation. And, there on the desk was that dreaded baggie with the criminal evidence in it. I’m sunk. I may never see Lisa and the kids again. She gets tough quickly. “Why did you try to bring an apple into the country?” I answer, “Uh, because I thew it in my backpack this morning and forgot it was there.” She says, “Backpack, huh?” I nod. She then fills out a third form on the computer. I looked over and Adele was getting the same third degree questioning from her agent. But, she had tears in her eyes. “Oh, no,” I think. I can’t compete with crying. They’ll book me for sure. Meanwhile, Stephanie was standing outside peeking in to make sure no Geneva Convention rules were being violated.

After the nice agent finishes all the forms she prints them, stamps them, and puts them down in front of me. The first one was a list of the charges — attempting to bring one apple, .25kg, into the country. The second, my confession. The third, my permission to destroy the offending fruit. Since the apple baggie was still sitting on the desk staring at me, I had no choice but to sign.

She then puts a card in front of me that says the minimum fine was $200 US dollars. Whoa, that is the most expensive apple I never got to eat. I begin to reach for my credit card when she say, “No. Since this is your first offense we will charge you nothing.” You are free to go.

“Free? To go? You mean I can see my wife and kids again?” She smiles and nods. I walk out where Adele, her husband Stephen, and Stephanie are waiting. There are ten minutes before our flight is scheduled to leave. Let’s go! As we are heading up the elevator, Stephanie tells me we can catch the next flight in just over an hour. I said, “If we hurry, we can catch this one.” She gave me one of those “Oh you poor, foolish soul” looks and said, “perhaps.” Stephanie is always so polite.

As we got to the check in line there was Lisa waiting for me with our luggage. I had hoped she would have gone ahead and boarded the earlier flight, but, I was so happy to see her. She told me she would never leave without me.

Anyway, Stephanie, Adele, Stephen, Lisa and I had a nice lunch in the airport as we waited for the next flight. We laughed about our plight and vowed never again to carry fruit when we travel. You see, travel, like life, is what you make of it. Things may not always go the way you expect them or want them to go. But, no matter what, it can be an adventure. Enjoy the ride.

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Adele and I with our criminal papers.

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Mendoza — Wine Country by the Mountains

A serious change of pace.

We left the hustle-bustle of Buenos Aires by plane for our two-hour flight to Mendoza. The distance was more than the few hundred miles we flew. Mendoza sits in the shadow of the Andes Mountains in the northeastern part of Argentina. Mt. Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere at 22,837 ft. above sea level. For context, the tallest mountains in Colorado are a mere 14,000+ ft. While Buenos Aires had that European flair, Mendoza is notably Latin American with a Southwestern US feel.

We drove out of town and into wine country to our lodging at the Cavas Wine Lodge. Our accommodations were individual adobe and stone villas set among the vineyards with spectacular views of the Andes. The unique architecture features a funny-looking chimney and rooftop deck. They are such cozy little places that we weren’t sure we wanted to leave our villa for the many events we had scheduled.

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One of the villas with the Andes mountains in the background.

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The villas among the vineyards. Note the lack of growth on the vines. We’re still in early Spring before bud break.

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The very old vines on the property.

After a delicious lunch we unpacked and relaxed for a bit on the rooftop deck. I might have relaxed a bit too much:

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We got a cooking class before dinner from the lodge’s great chef. Our first lesson was in making empanadas, a traditional Argentine appetizer. Empanadas are pastries with delicious fillings. Ours had beef, green olives, paprika, grilled vegetables, and many herbs. The Argentines are very good at creating foods with complex flavors. Our chef was no exception. OK, these things taste great. But, making them certainly isn’t as easy as it looks. Our group was less than supportive as my every attempt at rolling up the edge of the dough into the perfectly twisted seal failed miserably. My only consolation was that Lisa was only marginally better than I was. For our friends expecting empanadas when you visit, watch for the Trader Joe’s version.

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The chefs ready to teach their eager subjects.

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The, uh, eager subjects.

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Myla helping to make the veggies for the empanadas.

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Chef folding his empanada perfectly.

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Our group struggling to do what chef just showed us.

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Lisa’s art work.

Wine Tasting

The next morning we arose for a full day of hiking, biking, horseback riding and, of course, wine tasting. Lisa and I were really looking forward to the activity because, to be truthful, we have been consuming many more calories than we’ve been burning. We couldn’t remember the last time we had been hungry. We drove over to the Uco Valley. It sits between the foothills and the Andes and is considered the Napa Valley of Argentina. While the roads are not yet very developed — many are still dirt — the wine industry is revving up. We hiked, biked, and had a wonderful picnic overlooking the valley. We then headed over to one of the prominent wineries in the region for a tasting.

Grape vines were brought to Mendoza 500 years ago by the Europeans. So winemaking isn’t new to the region. But, for many years it was a local industry. During the mid-1900s winemaking ramped up but the quality was less than desirable. They started to improve the quality in the 1970s, but, the region took a major hit in what was known locally as the “Beer Crisis”. Sounds innocuous enough, but, when Argentines began switching to other drinks, such as beer, the industry nearly collapsed (Brad Collins, we blame you). Many old vintners simply went out of business. But, in the end, this worked out well for the region as new winemakers moved in with a resolve to improve the quality. By the late 1990s Mendoza was becoming known throughout the world. And, when the dot com bubble burst, the global recession and devalued peso allowed the vintners to sell their high-quality product to other countries at a great price. Malbec, the dominant grape in the region had been used by the French as a blending grape in their Bordeaux wines. But the Argentines turned it into a global phenomenon as a grape that could stand on its own.

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Lisa and I overlooking the Uco Valley.

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Our traveling companions

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The Hikers

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Picnic Lunch

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Gorgeous Setting for Lunch

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Traditional Argentine Dancers and Musicians at Lunch

After lunch, we went to a local winery named Piattelli. The wine was exceptional and the winemaker was a joy to talk to and learn from. The best part of the experience was learning a new wine-tasting game! All we will tell you is that it involves blind tasting wine, placing bets, and winning prizes. You can look forward to playing this game at our house at an upcoming party!

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The Piattelli Winemaker giving us a tour

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Blind Wine-Tasting Game.

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Lisa and Sonja trying to guess their wine.

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Lisa is not too happy about Dugald beating her out at the end of the game!

We still had one more excursion in us this evening before the day was done. A group of us went to the restaurant 1884 in the town of Mendoza. 1884 is run by renowned chef Francis Mallman and has been voted one of the best restaurants in Argentina. The food was delicious although the portion sizes could have fed four people with each serving. The best part of the evening was being able to dine with Dana Wilke, a family friend from Danville, who is studying abroad here with a program with UC Davis. She is just starting her program and has plans to have a wonderful adventure here while taking five classes entirely in Spanish. All in all, we loved Mendoza and could easily spend a few more days here discovering all that this area has to offer.

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Dinner at 1884 with Dana Wilke

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And Now….Dancing the Argentine Tango

Today was filled with interesting discussions about art, sex, and tango. How often does that happen on a Monday? Our morning started with an intimate presentation by Ernesto Bertani; a famous Argentinian artist. He displayed and explained his various works of art at a local gallery. Because he knows no English, his words were translated by one of our guides. His works were very sensual so frequently our guide had to pause and give us a funny look and then translate his views on lovers, sexuality, and politics. We found his work to be fascinating. He painted series of pictures about the loss of creativity in the modern world, the loss of identity in the Argentinian system, and the tension between men and women. Here are a few pictures of his different pieces.

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After visiting with Ernesto, we took a tour of the MALBA Art Museum which features more than 200 works by contemporary and modern Latin American artists. We recognized some of the more famous pieces and were introduced to the complex, fascinating world of Latin American art.

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But the highlight of the day had to be our Argentine tango lessons! We were escorted to a private dance studio where we all taught how to do the tango. I was hoping my recent love of Zumba might get me through the tango but quickly learned that the two had nothing to do with one another. We were taught some basic dance steps at the beginning and Brad and I felt like we were at a Junior High School Dance. With each step we would count One, Two, Three, Four. As soon as we would “master” one move, the professionals would teach us a new twist….some new turns; a little move called the Ocho; a new way to hold our arms. It was very challenging but also a lot of fun. Our teachers were extremely patient and tried their best to encourage us!! Needless to say, we will not be heading to Dancing With The Stars anytime soon!

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The Professionals

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Pretending to Be Professionals

After our Tango lessons, we went to a renowned Argentine restaurant called Cabana Les Lilas in Puerto Madero. We sat outside by the port and had a delicious meal of authentic Argentinian Fare: Empanadas, Wonderful Cheeses and Breads, Delicious Local Grass-Fed Beef, and Dulche de Leche Crepes. We were absolutely stuffed at the end of the meal.

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Since this was our last night in Buenos Aires, we decided we had to go out for one last drink to a nearby speak-easy. By day, it passes as a floral shop but by night you go into a secret door down to the basement for drinks and delicious food. The owner makes his own gin and we had the most delicious gin and tonics that we have ever had. Very refreshing (I think the secret was the grapefruit slice and the sprig of thyme). It was the end to a wonderful, last day in Buenos Aires.

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20131001-001052.jpg The interior of the flower shop.

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Looks like a floral refrigerator? No, it’s the secret door to the basement and our mysterious speak-easy bar.

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