Posts Tagged With: South Dakota

Well, That Didn’t Work Out the Way We Planned.

Sometimes thing don’t work out exactly to plan. That can lead to disaster. But, Lisa and I have found that, often, a mangled schedule can lead to adventures you never would have thought to plan. The last leg of our trip in the Winona Rider unexpectedly led us to old friends, a new friend, and beautiful sights along the way.

Let’s roll the clock back to our last day at Winona Lake. Lisa’s sister Diana had a best friend, Heidi. Lisa has known Heidi since she was born and I first met her when she was 16. Well, Heidi was visiting Winona Lake while we were there. She asked where we were going as we headed home. When Lisa told her one of our stops was Twin Falls, Idaho, she said, “No it isn’t! You are staying with us in Ketchum.” Seeing a chance to reconnect with an old friend, we quickly agreed.

OK, roll forward to our last day in the Black Hills. As Lisa wrote, we loved the three days we spent there and were enjoying our final dinner the night before heading to our Harvest Hosts spot near Bozeman, Montana. When I made the reservation in May she had offered us a five-course meal at her farm along with a bottle of Prosecco followed by a movie in the barn. It sounded perfect.

A month later she texted me that she had to work at the county fair the night we were staying and couldn’t provide the dinner and movie. OK, no problem. We’ll still enjoy staying at what looked to be a beautiful farm.

Well, I texted her the night before our arrival and she let me know her house on the farm is now rented and she would need to ask the renters if we could stay. Uh oh. You see, Bozeman is a popular destination not far from Yellowstone National Park. I called several RV parks hoping they may have had a cancellation. No luck. I could only hope our host could arrange a stay for us.

She texted us back that her neighbor, Cheri, said we could park at her home for the night. I called her and she sounded so friendly and accommodating. We got her address and set out for Montana the next morning. Whew!

Devil’s Tower

On the way we saw that Devil’s Tower was only about an hour off of our route. Lisa and I decided that it would be worth the time and we readjusted our route. For those that haven’t heard of Devil’s Tower, it is a large butte that rises off of the floor of a valley in Northeast Wyoming. You may remember it as the alien landing place in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. I think Richard Dreyfus might have crafted a replica in his mashed potatoes in one scene.

Devil’s Tower turned out to be worth the change of itinerary. It was spectacular. We could see how Steven Spielberg chose it for a starring role in his movie as it had an almost surreal, other-planetary feel to it.

The Winona Rider posing with Devil’s Tower
Lisa and I posing with Devil’s Tower
Devil’s Tower

Three Forks, Montana

We left and headed into Montana. We drove through Bozeman and headed west to a small town called Three Forks. Our route took us to a narrow winding road through farmland. Small and winding turned to a gravel-covered dirt road. We passed our original Harvest Hosts destination (it looked very nice) and drove another six miles to Cheri’s home over the washboard-rutted surface. Cheri explained to us that six miles away still qualifies as being neighbors in this area. Makes sense to us.

As we pull up, Cheri comes out to greet us. She told us where to park and showed us where her garden was along with the chickens and cats. She said we should help ourselves to anything in the garden. I told her we would keep the dogs tied up as they had never seen a chicken before and I was a bit worried what they’d do if they did see one (most likely cower in fear). Cheri then pointed out a nice area to take the dogs for a walk and said feel free to walk around the adjacent ranch. She would call them to let them know we would be walking around.

After we returned, Lisa and I sat down for a nice wine and cheese dinner. Cheri came out to chat. She said she grew up in Florida, came to college in Bozeman, got married and found this cute little farmhouse to rent. She said is was the only place they could afford at the time and fell in love with it. Unfortunately, her marriage ended, but her stay at the farmhouse didn’t. A few years ago she offered to buy it from the ranchers that owned it. They agreed and she happily owns this beautiful property today.

Later that evening she texted me from inside her home and asked if we would like some eggs for breakfast. I enthusiastically said yes. Out Cheri comes with four fresh eggs from her chickens. The next morning I fried them up and we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast.

As we prepared to leave, Cheri was also getting ready to depart on her own camping trip. We thanked her for her hospitality and as we drove gingerly down the washboard road, Cheri passed us by smiling and waving at us. Cheri let us stay to help out her friend. But, she also showed that the kindness of strangers can lead to new friendships. The world needs more people like her.

The Winona Rider parked in front of Cheri’s farmhouse
The road to Cheri’s home
Sophie and Ralphie enjoying a beautiful Montana evening
Cheri’s garden
The iconic-looking barn next door.

Ketchum, Idaho

Six hours later we arrived in Ketchum. The town of about 3,000 people is in a valley surrounded by mountains and ski resorts just south of Sun Valley. Heidi moved there several years ago with her husband Eric. The home, built by Eric’s father, is a beautiful, large home on the outskirts of Ketchum. It has spectacular views of the mountains.

Heidi and Eric took us out to dinner in town with a few business associates of Eric’s. The dinner entailed great company, great food,and great wine. That night we stayed in the guest quarters, got a good night’s sleep and a nice shower (the shower in our van is a bit tight!) Heidi and Eric served us a nice breakfast before heading to the airport. We went into Ketchum to see the town before getting back on the road.

Heidi and Eric in their backyard
Ralphie didn’t want to leave.

Winnemucca, Nevada

“I was totin’ my pack down the dusty Winnemucca road. . .”

You’ve probably described a remote place you’ve been as being in the middle of nowhere. Well, no matter where that was, it wasn’t as middle-of-nowhere as Winnemucca. We had to find a place to stay that was halfway between Ketchum and home. Well, Winnemucca is it.

You may have heard of it. Johnny Cash sings about it in the song, I’ve Been Everywhere Man. It truly is dusty, hot, and dry. But, it does have a few things going for it. Being halfway between the Bay Area and lots of places makes it a regular stopping point for many people. It has a robust Basque population with the cultural benefits that affords. And, Butch Cassidy once robbed the bank there (What is it about all the bank robberies in the towns we visit?)

Anyway, we had a nice RV park, we fired up the air conditioner and turned on the TV for the first time on our trip to watch the Olympics. We had tough chicken we had bought in South Dakota, runny cheese, pasta, and a bagged, pre-made salad. But, we paired it with a very nice Burgundy we purchased in Ketchum so all was right in the world.

The next day we set out early and headed for home after a memorable month-long adventure. We met a lot of good people, reunited with others, and saw beautiful sights that continue to remind us of the beauty our country possesses. And, on road trips, like in life, sometimes when things don’t go exactly as planned, go with it. You never know what adventures might lie ahead.

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Badlands, Black Hills, and Buffalo Jams!

The main destination of our trip this week is South Dakota. I have never been to the Dakotas. Brad spent two years of his early high school years in Rapid City and was anxious to show this beautiful area to me. None of it disappointed and we had many delightful surprises along the way.

We started our journey at Badlands National Park. We drove from the Eastern end of South Dakota starting with fertile farmland to arid prairies to this unbelievable force of nature called the Badlands. The Native American tribe — the Lakotas — named this area Mako Sica meaning very eroded or bad land and the early French fur traders called the badlands ‘les mauviases terres a traverser’ or bad lands to traverse. Imagine early settlers traveling across the flat grassy plains and coming upon this magical geologic mystery of towering rock spires. We drove the scenic Badlands Loop and got out at as many scenic overlooks as we could. Dogs aren’t allowed to hike on the trails of most National Parks so we had to stick to the overlooks. We were fine with that because by the time we went sight-seeing the temps were in the mid-90’s. Here’s a few of our favorite Badland scenes. In a place like this, pictures really don’t do the area justice.

Brad does all of the planning for our RV trips.  Some of you might enjoy that little detail because until we got an RV, Gracie Forman, his right-hand person at Wells Fargo and I have done all of his travel planning.  He pre-warned me that our RV spot for the night might not be up to our standards but it was in a GREAT location because it was close to the Badlands.  Suffice it to say that if all of our overnight spots were like the RV spot near the Badlands, we would probably be selling the Winona Rider when we got home!  We made the best of it and enjoyed our air-conditioning and really good WiFi and called it a night.  

The next day we were off to the Black Hills but first we had to make a stop at Wall Drug. What a crazy place that is. You have to visit it to be able to describe it. Wall Drug Store began in the 1930’s as a place that offered free ice water to travelers. You can’t miss the location because there were at least 100 billboards telling us where it was and what they offered. We really wanted that 5 cent cup of coffee they advertised but the line was so long that we decided to pass and just enjoy the spectacle. There were cowboy hats, ice cream cones, coffee mugs, buffalo-skin coats, little license plates with your name on them – pretty much any cliche souvenir you can imagine.

Wall Drug goes on for blocks and blocks!

From Wall, we drove to Rapid City and stopped at Brad’s high school—Douglas High. Brad attended school there his freshman and sophomore years. The façade had changed but after walking around, he still remembered certain classrooms and areas he used to hang out as a young 15 year old. We drove by Ellsworth Air Force Base where his Dad was stationed and stopped quickly to look at the outdoor Air and Space Museum at the Base.

Brad re-living his youth at Douglas High
A Huey helicopter similar to the one Brad’s Dad flew when stationed at Ellsworth AFB

Next we decided we were up for Mount Rushmore. We weren’t sure how busy it would be but were delighted to see that the lines were short and the parking was plentiful. We did a quick Chevy Chase tour of the Monument. (Dogs aren’t allowed up close) We took a selfie and patted ourselves on the back for our lucky timing! It really is impressive and worth your time to visit.

Quick selfie at Mount Rushmore
Close up of the Presidents

Time for lunch and Custer State Park in the Black Hills. The Black Hills were named by the Lakota tribe because of their dark appearance from a distance, as they are covered with evergreen trees. Until I visited, I had always thought they were named that because the hills were actually black. Duh! Of all of the parks we have seen, Custer State Park has to be one of the finest. There is so much to see and do and such variety of terrain. Our first day we had a picnic lunch at a lovely lake and then headed towards the Visitor Center to get our bearings. Funny thing though when you are driving through Custer State Park, you never know when you will get stuck in a buffalo jam. And stuck we got!!! There were at least 100 buffalo when we turned a corner on our path. They were everywhere—in the pasture, on the road, in the hills. None of them were going anywhere quickly. In fact, they seemed to relish in the fact that they were stopping lines of cars on both sides of the road and they were not about to move. We sat there for about 45 minutes wondering how we ever were going to get through but one-by-one each car took their turn navigating through the bison.

Buffalo Traffic Jam…These guys weren’t going anywhere fast!
A field of buffalo

The Native American term for buffalo or bison is Tatanka. The buffalo are held in high regard by the Lakota people and the species are respected as a symbol of the divine. After seeing these creatures up close, you really do understand their magnificence. Of course, my husband just wanted to sing the CU Fight Song and call out Ralphie every time he saw them because that’s what Buffs do.

A Retired Ralphie?

After our buffalo jam and a few more walks in the park with Sophie and Ralphie, we headed to our campground for the next three nights. I know that Brad was holding his breath that this one would get my approval and luckily it far exceeded it! We got one of the most picturesque spots in the place and have enjoyed a very peaceful, private camp site these past three nights. We were surrounded by pine trees and a real shower! I know I shouldn’t mix nature with a modern facility but when you are showering in a tiny wet bath in the Sprinter Van, a real shower is akin to heaven. I think I have enjoyed my three showers here a little too much!! We have been able to walk the dogs outside of the campground and see the sunset every night. We also have fun seeing everyone’s different RV’s and tents. They certainly do come in all shapes and sizes from Monster RV’s that are up to 45 feet long to Retro ones that are complete with a white picket fence and matching outdoor furniture to small pup tents that can only fit a single person. Our neighbors at our campsite are from Boulder and live in the area Brad and I bought our first condo. (What are the odds?)

Peaceful Big Pines Campground
Sophie and Ralphie going on a Sunset Stroll
Cute Retro RV…We really need to up our game!
Can’t even imagine driving and parking this monster

The last two days we have had slow mornings and leisurely evenings with some great morning hikes, picnic lunches at lakes, and a little sightseeing thrown in. We did another quick Chevy Chase tour of Crazy Horse Memorial (they were building this memorial well before Brad lived here and are still not close to finishing) and we did a couple of lovely picturesque drives on Iron Mountain Road and Wildlife Loop. Our excursion on Iron Mountain Road was averted when we got caught in some pea-sized hail (and Brad hates peas). We quickly turned around and felt great pity for all of the motorcyclists who were finding cover under the trees. On our way to Wildlife Loop, we got caught in a shorter Buffalo Jam- these guys were on the move this time. We also got to see Pronghorn antelope, Prairie Dogs, more Buffalo and delightful, playful Burros.

Lover’s Leap Hike!
Lost Trails Hike…Just a man and his dog(s)
Beautiful waterfalls on the Lost Hills Hike
Crazy Horse Memorial…Will it get done in our lifetime?
Another Buffalo Jam…These guys were on the move this time.
Brad, Can we bring this cute donkey home?
Hail Storm!

The Black Hills and Badlands are one of the most awe-inspiring places we have been. It has been so nice to “drop anchor” here for three days and take our time seeing the sights and enjoying nature. And, yes, I’ll never forget the great showers and my husband calling all of the buffalo on the road “Ralphie”. Go Buffs!

You lookin’ at me, Brad?
So True!

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Midwestern Wine and Beer and Water — Lots of Water

When we last left you, we were sleeping with goats in Nebraska. Well, since then we have stayed at a winery in Iowa; spent two weeks in one of our favorite places — Winona Lake, Indiana; stayed at a brewery in Wisconsin; and as I write, we are staying in a winery in Garretson, South Dakota called Humble Hill Winery.

We come from California wine country so if you think we might be a bit snobbish about our wines, you’d be right. And, while the wines in South Dakota, Iowa, and other non-California wineries we’ve been to aren’t what we’re used to, we have met wonderful people who are plying their trade with the tools they have been given and doing a good job of it.

We have nothing but praise for the places we’ve stayed and the people we’ve met. You don’t need to make world-class wine to make people happy and to build a thriving business. You simply need to make something that is tasty and make the experience something people enjoy.

Let’s back up a bit. We left Pickrell, Nebraska and drove to Marengo, Iowa (yeah, we’d never heard of it either). We stayed at Fireside Winery which had beautiful grounds and a very friendly staff. Given the wine selection we ordered a local beer that they had on the menu. Add a nice cheese and charcuterie plate and we had a beautiful evening. The sunset was spectacular and the generous people at the winery allowed us to eat dinner in their outdoor dining area. It was a fantastic experience.

Our beer and cheese platter
Sunset at Fireside Winery in Marengo, Iowa

Off to Winona Lake, Indiana to spend time with Lisa’s Dad and to enjoy all that lake life has to offer. Stephanie, our youngest daughter met us there and we had a fantastic time although it wasn’t without it’s lowlights. For one, Lisa’s childhood friend’s mom (Lisa’s summer Mom) passed away while we were there. It was tragic and sad.

We left Winona and headed north on our one-week adventure in the Winona Rider. First stop — Tumbled Rock Brewery in Baraboo, Wisconsin. While the place feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere, it is close to Devil’s Lake State Park, a popular attraction that was spectacular. Baraboo is famous as the home of the Ringling Brothers and their circus.

We had dinner and a local English IPA (it was very good) at the outdoor bar and were entertained by an enjoyable blues singer from Cedar Rapids, Iowa. While we were hoping for a circus act, the singer won Lisa over when he did a James Taylor song early in his first set.

Toasting a Successful Travel Day
Tumbled Rock Brewery
Sophie and Ralphie Enjoying the Evening’s Entertainment

As we headed west, Lisa said she had always wanted to visit Winona, Minnesota since it had the same name as the lake she so dearly loved. And, since our van, the Winona Rider shared the name we knew we had to take the detour to the town. Oh, and the original Winona Ryder was born there so it had that going for it too.

The town of 27,500 was beautiful. It had a large lake at its center named Lake Winona (as opposed to our Winona Lake) and ran along the Mississippi River at the Minnesota/Wisconsin border. We had a terrific lunch on the shore of the lake. After lunch I headed to the center of town, only to be flagged down by a local telling me I was going the wrong way on a one-way road. I hate it when that happens.

Once we got turned back around, we found the Winona Visitors’ Center and Lisa bought a t-shirt. You’ll probably see her wearing it someday. She’s very proud of it.

Us in front of Lake Winona. My Port Winona shirt is from Indiana, not here.
Lisa at the Lake Winona Visitors’ Center
Lisa’s new favorite shirt

We left Winona and headed west for Garretson, SD and our current overnight stay at Humble Hill Winery. Garretson’s claim to fame is that Jesse James robbed a bank here and eluded the posse sent out to capture him. We didn’t see him either.

Rob, the owner had a dream to start a winery ever since he met a retired Lt. Colonel in San Luis Obispo who had started one in California. Rob is a retired Army Lt. Colonel and thought he could do the same. He said it took him about ten years to make it a reality, but, he seems to be doing well with it. Things started out rocky, however. First, a powerful line of thunderstorms came through in 2015 and blew down the building behind his home where he planned to put the tasting room. We are parked right next to the wreckage. Then, the new garage addition he put on his home for the tasting room burned down. He finally rebuilt and opened a couple of years later. Give him credit for persistence.

Sophie and Ralphie at Humble Hill Winery
The should-have-been tasting room that blew down in 2015

Lisa and I have been appreciating the simple pleasures of road travel on this leg of the trip. We have been able to see things we never would have seen and meet people we never would have met had we simply flown from one place to the other. It is a slower pace that we are cherishing. And, coming from the West we don’t have much water. In the Midwest, water is plentiful. So, while we may have the wine in California, no one can top the lakes in the Midwest. If you haven’t spent time at one, you haven’t lived.

It’s also a pace that we may long for on our next leg as we head to the tourist crowds of Badlands National Park and the Black Hills. Stay tuned . . .

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