The driest place on Earth.
The Atacama desert in northern Chile receives less rainfall than the Mojave desert, the Sahara desert, and anywhere else on the planet. The wetter area, where we are staying, receives 1 to 2 inches of rain per year. Other places in the region get a mere drop of precipitation. Most of the water for the region comes in the form of snowmelt running off from the Andes Mountains to the east.
We landed on Thursday (after the apple caper) in Calama. We felt like we had traveled to another planet. There was no vegetation whatsoever for miles. When we finally saw green, it was in the form of little stubby brush sparsely sprinkled on the landscape. As we traveled throughout the area in the next couple of days, we found it to be extremely diverse. Part Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom; part Start Wars in the original movie; and, we’re convinced that the Mars Rover actually landed here in another part of the desert.
We’re in the high desert — about 8,000 feet above sea level. The mountains surrounding us rise to 18,000 feet. The area is dominated by volcanoes. In fact, there are 150 active volcanoes in Chile — 10% of the world’s active volcanoes. Several are visible from our vantage point.
It is difficult for us to convey the magnificence of this place. The pictures don’t even do it justice. The population consists of miners (one of the largest copper mining areas in the world) and indigenous people who have been here for thousands of years. The area is geologically active; and, the landscape varies greatly. Our resort is in an oasis that is fed by one of the few precious rivers that flow from the Andes.
We started in the Atacama Salt Flats. Pink flamingoes thrive here on the brine shrimp that are the only marine life in the salt lagoons. We got up very early one morning to see the Tatio Geysers that sit at 15,000 feet above sea level in the mountains. We moved on to the Puritama Thermal Hot Springs for a dip; we watched the sun set on the mountains with colors changing from brown to pink to red. At night we went stargazing. Because of the altitude, the dry air, and the lack of city lights, this is one of the best places in the world for observatories. The Milky Way was prominent, looking like hazy clouds in the sky (for you, Laura Kapp). We saw the Magellenic Clouds for the first time ever since they sit deep in the southern sky and can’t be seen from the Northern Hemisphere.
We then went on one of the most amazing hikes we’ve ever done. Climbing to the top of a ridge, we had a spectacular view of — I’m not sure how to describe it — the jagged red peaks near our resort. We traversed the ridge until we came upon the largest sand dunes we’ve ever seen. The sand literally climbed to the top of the cliffs on the ridge we were hiking.
The guide suddenly stopped and said to us, “we’ll go down here.” Uh, where? There was nothing but giant, steep dunes over the cliff for as far as we could see. “Here,” he said. Down the sand. Whoa. The looks on all the faces of the people in our group were simply stunned. One said, “Where is the other way down. I’m not going down there.” Lisa asked me to stay right with her and hold her hand. Most just kept an uncomfortable look on their faces and stayed silent.
One by one people stepped off the cliff and onto the sand dune. It was soft and deep. Soon we were all slipping and sliding and gliding and running down this steep sand pile. An entire group of fifty-somethings started whooping and hollering like 12-year olds. It was the most amazing hiking experience we’ve ever had. When we got to the bottom we were all exhilarated, high-fiving and laughing out loud. We emptied our shoes of the five pounds of sand that had accumulated in them and hiked out the bottom of the canyon. We drank a well-deserved Chilean beer and toasted our accomplishment.
Take some time to review the photos below. Even though they don’t fully do the region justice — it is so spectacular in person — you’ll get an idea of what we experienced. Before coming here, we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert. This once-in-a-lifetime experience will now forever be with us.
Our resort — Alto Atacama
We rode mountain bikes for the 13 miles to the Cejar Lagoon — it is as salty as the Dead Sea.
This dog ran the full 13 miles with us. The guide says he does this every day.
Dugald, Lance, Matt, and Brad before diving into the 55 degree salt water at the lagoon.
Diving in. Notice the dog came in with us.
The water was very, very cold. And, the salt burned the eyes. But, we did it!
Lisa’s version of diving in.
The pink flamingoes. Arne and Donna Larson, these two are for you.
The flying flamingoes.
We bought sweaters from this store in Tocanao. They were made from these llamas.
The store owner kissing her llama.
Lisa and Brad on the salt flats in front of an Andes volcano. I know it looks like a green screen shot, but, it’s real.
Lisa in her yoga pose. She has to do one everywhere we go!
Our fun, fantastic Exclusive Resorts tour leaders — Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald
Sunset over the Atacama Salt Flat with a volcano in the background.
Lisa looking “ruggedly attractive.”
The Tatio Geysers at sunrise. They are at 15,000 ft above sea level. It was 13 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Brrr.
The boys standing in the steam from a geyser. Unlike Yellowstone, you can walk right up and look at them.
Lisa and Hallie warming themselves on a hot rock. Note the smiles as they thaw out somewhat.
A vicuna — a small animal related to camels and llamas.
Here we all are in the Puritama Thermal Springs thawing out from our visit to the geysers. The same geologic phenomenon that heats the geysers warms the water here.
And finally, the now infamous hike. We entered in this “Indiana Jones-like” tunnel. It was about a quarter mile long and unlit. We truly learned the meaning of the phrase “light at the end of the tunnel.”
Climbing to the top of the ridge we would walk for the next few miles.
Not to the top yet!
The view from the ridge. We have never seen anything like this before.
I think those tracks in the foreground are from the Mars Rover. It really landed here.
Look at that monstrous sand dune reaching all the way up to the ridge. I joked that we could slide down it if we wanted to. I didn’t realize how, right I would be.
Starting our way down. I think Lisa is saying, “Brad, what have you gotten me in to!!?”
Heading down. It’s steep and deep.
About 10% of the way down. That’s the ridge we were hiking at the top of the photo.
Everyone has their confidence and is beginning to run down.
Getting to the bottom. Look at how far up the ridge is from here.
After a long, satisfying day, we were treated to this beautiful orange sunset back at our resort.
Lisa and Brad's Travels 