Posts Tagged With: Chile

Final Thoughts on our Trip to Argentina and Chile

Group Travel is not for everyone.  Sometimes there are schedules and early wake-up calls and tours that might not be of interest. Sometimes you have the loss of spontaneity that you get when you travel alone.    But if you travel with a group like we just did, you will find yourself having adventures that you never thought you would experience and go to places that you have never heard of.  When we signed on for this trip, we were excited about visiting Buenos Aires and Santiago;  we had read about these two cities and had seen many photographs.  As everyone knows, we love our wine so we knew that Mendoza would be a favorite for the both of us.  Drinking Malbec at the base of the Andes Mountains?  A no-brainer.

But we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert.  We had no idea what to expect; the itinerary suggested some hiking in the mountains and we thought that would be fun because we like to hike.  Little did we know that we would get to see landscapes so unreal that we thought we were in a movie set of Star Wars or Indiana Jones; or  that we would experience bubbling, sizzling geysers as we watched the sunrise in the Andes; or view the clearest night skies we have ever seen.   And, of course, we never dreamed we would run down a steep sand dune giggling and whooping it up like a bunch of children!

Another thing that happens on a group trip is that you form some wonderful friendships and bonds over the course of ten days.  We didn’t know any of the 22 people on our trip before we arrived but now we have lasting memories with each of them.  We all shared a love of travel and adventure but beyond that we all lived very different lives all throughout various parts of the country.  Because of this trip, we can now say we have tangoed together in Buenos Aires, discovered a secret speak-easy disguised as a floral shop, discussed art with an influential Buenos Aires Painter, played a Blind Wine-Tasting Game at the foot of the Andes, biked and hiked in Mendoza, were detained in a Chilean airport (ok…just Adele and Brad can say that), experienced the sunrise with bubbling geysers,  went star-gazing in the Southern Hemisphere, and ran down the steepest sand dune in the Atacama Desert.   Our last lunch was evidence of the bond we all formed as we made toast after toast to all of the fun things we did and our fantastic guides. Ten days ago we were strangers.  We now have a bond that will last a lifetime.

A group trip is only as good as its leaders and we had the good fortune of having a team that cared for our well-being every turn of the way.  Stephanie and Hallie from Blue Parallel worked tirelessly behind the scenes so we didn’t have to worry about anything.  Each of them could have been the same age as some of our children; yet they were the ones working hard to make sure that lost luggage was found and all of our dietary issues (and there were a lot) were cared for at each restaurant and dinner.  The moms of the group were all worried that Stephanie could never finish her meal for having to deal with various issues in the group and kept urging her to eat and rest more!  Stephanie had the patience of a saint and was always smiling and polite (there’s that word again) as the daily itineraries were changed or flights were missed because someone had an apple in his pack!

And then there was Dugald, our leader from Exclusive Resorts.  He was there with a devilish grin urging people to dive in to the freezing cold salt lagoon, run up a cactus-filled hill, or sprint down a steep sand dune– always in good spirit and filled with zest and enthusiasm.  He was a friend to us all,  always asking for feedback and checking in with how the trip was going.

Needless to say, because of all these bonds there were a few tears and lots of hugs when we had to say good-bye to everyone at the Santiago Airport.  We feel very fortunate to have been able to go on this trip with these people.  Memories like these can’t be made in a Frommers Guidebook, National Geographic, or an Internet Travel Site.  They must be savored and enjoyed with a Pisco Sour and a run down a sand dune!

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald:  Our Fearless Leaders

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald: Our Fearless Leaders

The Group

The Group

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The Atacama Desert — Earth, Wind, Fire, and Water (a little bit)

The driest place on Earth.

The Atacama desert in northern Chile receives less rainfall than the Mojave desert, the Sahara desert, and anywhere else on the planet. The wetter area, where we are staying, receives 1 to 2 inches of rain per year. Other places in the region get a mere drop of precipitation. Most of the water for the region comes in the form of snowmelt running off from the Andes Mountains to the east.

We landed on Thursday (after the apple caper) in Calama. We felt like we had traveled to another planet. There was no vegetation whatsoever for miles. When we finally saw green, it was in the form of little stubby brush sparsely sprinkled on the landscape. As we traveled throughout the area in the next couple of days, we found it to be extremely diverse. Part Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom; part Start Wars in the original movie; and, we’re convinced that the Mars Rover actually landed here in another part of the desert.

We’re in the high desert — about 8,000 feet above sea level. The mountains surrounding us rise to 18,000 feet. The area is dominated by volcanoes. In fact, there are 150 active volcanoes in Chile — 10% of the world’s active volcanoes. Several are visible from our vantage point.

It is difficult for us to convey the magnificence of this place. The pictures don’t even do it justice. The population consists of miners (one of the largest copper mining areas in the world) and indigenous people who have been here for thousands of years. The area is geologically active; and, the landscape varies greatly. Our resort is in an oasis that is fed by one of the few precious rivers that flow from the Andes.

We started in the Atacama Salt Flats. Pink flamingoes thrive here on the brine shrimp that are the only marine life in the salt lagoons. We got up very early one morning to see the Tatio Geysers that sit at 15,000 feet above sea level in the mountains. We moved on to the Puritama Thermal Hot Springs for a dip; we watched the sun set on the mountains with colors changing from brown to pink to red. At night we went stargazing. Because of the altitude, the dry air, and the lack of city lights, this is one of the best places in the world for observatories. The Milky Way was prominent, looking like hazy clouds in the sky (for you, Laura Kapp). We saw the Magellenic Clouds for the first time ever since they sit deep in the southern sky and can’t be seen from the Northern Hemisphere.

We then went on one of the most amazing hikes we’ve ever done. Climbing to the top of a ridge, we had a spectacular view of — I’m not sure how to describe it — the jagged red peaks near our resort. We traversed the ridge until we came upon the largest sand dunes we’ve ever seen. The sand literally climbed to the top of the cliffs on the ridge we were hiking.

The guide suddenly stopped and said to us, “we’ll go down here.” Uh, where? There was nothing but giant, steep dunes over the cliff for as far as we could see. “Here,” he said. Down the sand. Whoa. The looks on all the faces of the people in our group were simply stunned. One said, “Where is the other way down. I’m not going down there.” Lisa asked me to stay right with her and hold her hand. Most just kept an uncomfortable look on their faces and stayed silent.

One by one people stepped off the cliff and onto the sand dune. It was soft and deep. Soon we were all slipping and sliding and gliding and running down this steep sand pile. An entire group of fifty-somethings started whooping and hollering like 12-year olds. It was the most amazing hiking experience we’ve ever had. When we got to the bottom we were all exhilarated, high-fiving and laughing out loud. We emptied our shoes of the five pounds of sand that had accumulated in them and hiked out the bottom of the canyon. We drank a well-deserved Chilean beer and toasted our accomplishment.

Take some time to review the photos below. Even though they don’t fully do the region justice — it is so spectacular in person — you’ll get an idea of what we experienced. Before coming here, we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert. This once-in-a-lifetime experience will now forever be with us.

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Our resort — Alto Atacama

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We rode mountain bikes for the 13 miles to the Cejar Lagoon — it is as salty as the Dead Sea.

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This dog ran the full 13 miles with us. The guide says he does this every day.

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Dugald, Lance, Matt, and Brad before diving into the 55 degree salt water at the lagoon.

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Diving in. Notice the dog came in with us.

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The water was very, very cold. And, the salt burned the eyes. But, we did it!

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Lisa’s version of diving in.

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The pink flamingoes. Arne and Donna Larson, these two are for you.

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The flying flamingoes.

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We bought sweaters from this store in Tocanao. They were made from these llamas.

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The store owner kissing her llama.

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Lisa and Brad on the salt flats in front of an Andes volcano. I know it looks like a green screen shot, but, it’s real.

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Lisa in her yoga pose. She has to do one everywhere we go!

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Our fun, fantastic Exclusive Resorts tour leaders — Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald

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Sunset over the Atacama Salt Flat with a volcano in the background.

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Lisa looking “ruggedly attractive.”

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The Tatio Geysers at sunrise. They are at 15,000 ft above sea level. It was 13 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Brrr.

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The boys standing in the steam from a geyser. Unlike Yellowstone, you can walk right up and look at them.

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Lisa and Hallie warming themselves on a hot rock. Note the smiles as they thaw out somewhat.

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A vicuna — a small animal related to camels and llamas.

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Here we all are in the Puritama Thermal Springs thawing out from our visit to the geysers. The same geologic phenomenon that heats the geysers warms the water here.

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And finally, the now infamous hike. We entered in this “Indiana Jones-like” tunnel. It was about a quarter mile long and unlit. We truly learned the meaning of the phrase “light at the end of the tunnel.”

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Climbing to the top of the ridge we would walk for the next few miles.

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Not to the top yet!

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The view from the ridge. We have never seen anything like this before.

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I think those tracks in the foreground are from the Mars Rover. It really landed here.

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Look at that monstrous sand dune reaching all the way up to the ridge. I joked that we could slide down it if we wanted to. I didn’t realize how, right I would be.

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Starting our way down. I think Lisa is saying, “Brad, what have you gotten me in to!!?”

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Heading down. It’s steep and deep.

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About 10% of the way down. That’s the ridge we were hiking at the top of the photo.

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Everyone has their confidence and is beginning to run down.

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Getting to the bottom. Look at how far up the ridge is from here.

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After a long, satisfying day, we were treated to this beautiful orange sunset back at our resort.

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Crimes, Punishment, and Other Travel Inconveniences

I was detained by Chilean authorities as I attempted to enter the country. They knew they had me. Now all they needed was for me to confess. I hadn’t thought my actions would lead to this. But, now here I was — alone, waiting for the interrogation. . .

Like life, travel doesn’t always go like you might expect or hope. You learn a lot about yourself and others, however, when something does go wrong. Earlier this year, Lisa broke her wrist on a sailing trip, hours from decent medical care. Our friends rallied, sprang into action, and creatively improvised to get her the help she needed. We learned that we have the world’s best friends.

But, problems don’t usually rise to crisis level. Sometimes it is just a relatively minor inconvenience. One of our travel companions, Sharon, is a life coach. She says that people determine their own happiness by the way they respond to the things that happen to them. I think this is right. You can turn a minor irritation into a major negative and bring everyone down. Or, you can roll with it, see the humor in your situation and create an adventure for yourself.

Sharon has personally tested her theory this week. We were in line to check our bags in Buenos Aires for our flight to Mendoza. Sharon said, “I sure hope my bags don’t get lost. I couldn’t survive without the stuff in my luggage.” (foreshadowing). Well, you guessed it. We got to Mendoza and Sharon’s bag was no where to be found. We later learned it went to Chile and is still having the time of its life somewhere in that country. We’re just not sure where. Well, instead of getting angry and ruining her vacation, she has taken the whole thing in stride. The travel gods tested her further when she went to the store to buy some casual shoes. She tried on the left one — it fit — so she bought them and brought them back to the resort. The next morning as we were getting ready to leave for Chile, we heard she and her friend Laura laughing uncontrollably as they came into the breakfast room. We asked what was so funny. She pointed at the shoes and said, “Two left shoes, no right one.”

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Sharon, discovering that she had two left shoes.

I’m not sure I would have had the same patience.

Anyway, you’re probably wondering what this has to do with my trouble getting into Chile. Back to that story.

We landed in Santiago and were transferring to our flight to Calama in the Atacama desert. We had to go through immigration, collect our bags, go through customs, recheck our bags, go back through security, and board our flight to Calama. My issue began when we went through customs.

I handed the agent my customs form and put my bags on that conveyor belt that takes everything through the x-ray. As I was collecting my bags on the other side, one of the agents grabs my backpack and says, “who does this belong to?” I told him it was mine and I came over to see what the problem was. Was I supposed to declare my iPad? Did I leave a dirty pair of underwear in there? Hmmm. He asked, “Do you have any fruit in here?” Uh oh. The nice guide that was with us on our ride to the airport gave us some fruit to bring along because we were going to be traveling through lunch time. I had forgotten that I had thrown contraband in my backpack — (cue dramatic music) an apple. That darned forbidden fruit.

I was immediately ushered over to the area they hold criminals. Lisa looked with panic at her detained spouse. Her parents warned I’d be trouble (I’m sure this was going through her mind at the time). Our tour leader Stephanie threw herself into the fray. She said something in Spanish that I’m sure translated to “I know this guy looks suspicious, but, can you please let him go so we can make our plane?” When that didn’t work I was moved over to another area to answer questions so the customs agent could fill out a form by hand. The form basically said that I claimed no fruit on my customs form and had, in my possession, one apple, .25kg. She showed me the place on the form that indicated this was a misdemeanor and they could lock me up for the better part of the rest of my life. (OK, I exaggerate). I couldn’t deny it because there on the desk, in a plastic baggie to keep whatever ills it contained out of the country, was the evidence — my (cue dramatic music) apple.

Well, after I signed the paper, I was sent back to the holding area and told to wait. There in the waiting area was my fellow traveler and also criminal, Adele. I asked her what she was in for. She had some raisins and nut mix in her possession. Surely that is worse than a single apple. I mean, how many raisins and nuts were in that partial package? Maybe they’ll be satisfied with working her over and letting me go. In the meantime, Stephanie is still working to get us both free. I still couldn’t understand what they were saying (see early blog, Lost in Translation). But, there was a lot of head shaking by the customs guys. I knew that couldn’t be good.

Well, after a while, Adele and I go into a new room and are speaking to separate agents. Mine was a very nice agent who was entering everything on the first form into the computer. She prints it out and proceeds to type something into another form. She asks me if I speak Spanish. I say no and she says her English is not good. I smile and tell her that it’s OK, we can figure it out together. I thought charming her might just work.

Then the customs lady starts the (cue even more dramatic music) interrogation. And, there on the desk was that dreaded baggie with the criminal evidence in it. I’m sunk. I may never see Lisa and the kids again. She gets tough quickly. “Why did you try to bring an apple into the country?” I answer, “Uh, because I thew it in my backpack this morning and forgot it was there.” She says, “Backpack, huh?” I nod. She then fills out a third form on the computer. I looked over and Adele was getting the same third degree questioning from her agent. But, she had tears in her eyes. “Oh, no,” I think. I can’t compete with crying. They’ll book me for sure. Meanwhile, Stephanie was standing outside peeking in to make sure no Geneva Convention rules were being violated.

After the nice agent finishes all the forms she prints them, stamps them, and puts them down in front of me. The first one was a list of the charges — attempting to bring one apple, .25kg, into the country. The second, my confession. The third, my permission to destroy the offending fruit. Since the apple baggie was still sitting on the desk staring at me, I had no choice but to sign.

She then puts a card in front of me that says the minimum fine was $200 US dollars. Whoa, that is the most expensive apple I never got to eat. I begin to reach for my credit card when she say, “No. Since this is your first offense we will charge you nothing.” You are free to go.

“Free? To go? You mean I can see my wife and kids again?” She smiles and nods. I walk out where Adele, her husband Stephen, and Stephanie are waiting. There are ten minutes before our flight is scheduled to leave. Let’s go! As we are heading up the elevator, Stephanie tells me we can catch the next flight in just over an hour. I said, “If we hurry, we can catch this one.” She gave me one of those “Oh you poor, foolish soul” looks and said, “perhaps.” Stephanie is always so polite.

As we got to the check in line there was Lisa waiting for me with our luggage. I had hoped she would have gone ahead and boarded the earlier flight, but, I was so happy to see her. She told me she would never leave without me.

Anyway, Stephanie, Adele, Stephen, Lisa and I had a nice lunch in the airport as we waited for the next flight. We laughed about our plight and vowed never again to carry fruit when we travel. You see, travel, like life, is what you make of it. Things may not always go the way you expect them or want them to go. But, no matter what, it can be an adventure. Enjoy the ride.

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Adele and I with our criminal papers.

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