Wine

Heading North. A Ferry Ride to Another Time

“You can’t make old friends.” — Kenny Rogers

We left Portland and continued our trek north on Interstate 5. The Winona Rider had never been to Washington so we were excited to cross the border and bag a new state. Lisa and I compete to see who gets into a new state first, usually by sticking our hand toward the windshield at the border, therefore having a body part enter the state first. As we approach the border I distract Lisa by pointing a random something-or-other and then stick my hand out to enter the state first. She looks at me with pity and shakes her head.

Vashon Island sits in the middle of Puget Sound between Tacoma and Seattle. An old friend of ours, Kevin Hoffberg and his wife Eddy live on Vashon Island. When we drew up our route for this trip, I reached out to Kevin to see if we might stop by for a visit. He enthusiastically invited us to stay the night with them and we enthusiastically accepted.

Kevin and I met over 20 years ago. I had just started my job at Wells Fargo and I needed to develop a mortgage growth strategy for the West Coast. Wells was then a distant third in market share. Our goal was to get to number one but that would need discipline and a good plan. Someone told me Kevin was a great consultant and could help. We met and almost immediately developed a connection. From that point on, Kevin and I worked together on bigger and bigger projects. His brilliance helped refine the knowledge and expertise of the Wells team and his ability to articulate the key issues and strategies to address them was unrivaled. We often met at High Tech Burrito for our meetings. That’s why, to this day, we never say we need to catch up. We simply say we need to grab a burrito.

Our relationship goes beyond a professional one, however. We have seen each others’ kids grow up, we have spent time with our spouses, we have gone through career changes, and life changes. We trust each other without question. In short, we have a long and rewarding history together. Lisa and I were looking forward to seeing Kevin and Eddy.

Now, Vashon Island, with about 10,000 residents, has no bridges. It is a relatively rural island (one might call it rural chic, however) and the people who live there want to keep it that way. So, the only way to get to Vashon is via ferry. Kevin texted me the ferry schedule and said to simply drive up pay the fare and drive on. The Winona Rider’s first boat ride!

We arrived at the line to get on the ferry at 1:15 to catch the 1:40 ferry. As we pulled up to the toll booth, the woman in the booth looks at our van, shakes her head, looks at me and says, “This van can’t get on.” “Um, ever?” I replied. I know I had checked the length of vehicles that could ride and we should have been fine. “We’re at low tide,” she said and that meant a vehicle of our length and clearance couldn’t get down the ramp without bottoming out. You see, the further north you go, the greater the tidal variation. Being in Seattle, tides go up and down a lot. That means the ramp onto the ferry was angled steeply down and 1:40 and the nose of our van would go straight into the floor of the ferry. “OK, when can we go?” I asked. “The tide will be up far enough for the 3:40 ferry. Come back then,” she responded. As I pulled out of the line and turned around, I hoped this wasn’t one of those Wizard of Oz “Come back later” moments.

Lisa and I went into the town of Ruston for lunch and then hung out at Point Defiance Park to see their gardens, run the dogs at their dog park, and stretch our legs.

The Antique Sandwich Company. A delightful place for lunch.
Garden of Eatin’. My kind of pun.
The dog park. Sophie had a great time. Ralphie got a time out because he doesn’t play well with other.
Point Defiance Park is, like much of the Northwest, quite wooded.
Lisa loved the rose gardens.

Once 3:00 rolled around we drove back to the ferry entrance. The woman who sent up away before gladly took our money and sent us into the ferry line. Soon we started loading and a guy directed us onto the ferry.

Driving onto the Vashon Island Ferry

Kevin and Eddy bought an old five-acre farm in 2012. The farm had been owned by a Japanese family for nearly 100 years. When they were sent to an internment camp during World War II a local farmer watched over it for them. The place is oozing with history. It also needed a lot of work.

We arrived at the Hoffberg property after a beautiful drive through Vashon Island. Kevin and Eddy greeted us with hugs, Sophie and Ralphie enthusiastically greeted Kevin and Eddy, and soon we were off on a tour of this magnificent place.

No matter how long you’ve known someone, there is always more to learn about them. Kevin, a business consultant, and Eddy an accomplished artist, also are quite capable farmers (they are adamant this is a “hobby farm”), carpenters, mechanics, gardeners, beekeepers, furniture makers, bakers, and overall fix-it people. Much of the renovation of the original home, and construction of outbuildings has been done by Kevin, Eddy, or both. I had no idea. And, the fact that I have no talent for any of these things made this discovery all the more impressive.

The property has many apple trees that Kevin and Eddy use to make cider. It also has pear trees, buckwheat, lavender, beehives, any vegetable you can name, a wood shop, art studio, flowers of all variety, tractors, an ATV, and even an area where people can glamp (luxury camping). The property is simply beautiful.

Rows of apple trees. They are cultivated a bit like grapevines.
Kevin and Eddy’s home. They did most of the renovations themselves.
The view from the house.
An outbuilding containing a wood shop, art studio, and soon a production studio for their professional dancer daughter’s videos.
The orangery that Kevin built. Basically a hothouse with citrus and other warm weather plants in it.
Poppies
Glamping Tent
A magnificent table that Kevin made himself in the glamping area.

We had a delicious dinner on their patio. For dessert we had Eddy’s homemade biscotti with Vin Santo, an Italian dessert wine that, I am embarrassed to say, had never had. It was delicious.

Kevin somehow remembered we were fans of the Golden State Warriors so he ushered us into the house to watch the fourth quarter of game six — one that the Warriors would win to take the championship. We cheered them on, turned off the TV, gabbed for a while longer then went out to watch the sunset. The days are very long this far north so sunset is quite late. In the morning we had a delicious breakfast of egg salad on homemade sourdough toast. We also got to sample honey from the bees out back (delicious).

Our conversations continued apace in the morning. Too soon, we had to leave before the tide went down and we couldn’t get off the island. As we said goodbye, I’ll confess to having a bit of a tear in my eye. You see, old friends are woven into the fabric of our lives. They are irreplaceable. Lisa and I are fortunate enough to have many old friends. The past two nights we were able to visit with two of them — Jon and Sallie Cohen, then Kevin and Eddy. We’re less than a week into the trip and it’s already created many memories.

If you have a chance today, reach out to one of your old friends and say hello. You will both be glad you did.

Kevin and Eddy
Our daily “Dogs at Sunset” shot. I think Sophie and Ralphie are getting bored of this.
Ralphie at the front door as we were getting ready to leave. I don’t think he wanted to go.
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Midwestern Wine and Beer and Water — Lots of Water

When we last left you, we were sleeping with goats in Nebraska. Well, since then we have stayed at a winery in Iowa; spent two weeks in one of our favorite places — Winona Lake, Indiana; stayed at a brewery in Wisconsin; and as I write, we are staying in a winery in Garretson, South Dakota called Humble Hill Winery.

We come from California wine country so if you think we might be a bit snobbish about our wines, you’d be right. And, while the wines in South Dakota, Iowa, and other non-California wineries we’ve been to aren’t what we’re used to, we have met wonderful people who are plying their trade with the tools they have been given and doing a good job of it.

We have nothing but praise for the places we’ve stayed and the people we’ve met. You don’t need to make world-class wine to make people happy and to build a thriving business. You simply need to make something that is tasty and make the experience something people enjoy.

Let’s back up a bit. We left Pickrell, Nebraska and drove to Marengo, Iowa (yeah, we’d never heard of it either). We stayed at Fireside Winery which had beautiful grounds and a very friendly staff. Given the wine selection we ordered a local beer that they had on the menu. Add a nice cheese and charcuterie plate and we had a beautiful evening. The sunset was spectacular and the generous people at the winery allowed us to eat dinner in their outdoor dining area. It was a fantastic experience.

Our beer and cheese platter
Sunset at Fireside Winery in Marengo, Iowa

Off to Winona Lake, Indiana to spend time with Lisa’s Dad and to enjoy all that lake life has to offer. Stephanie, our youngest daughter met us there and we had a fantastic time although it wasn’t without it’s lowlights. For one, Lisa’s childhood friend’s mom (Lisa’s summer Mom) passed away while we were there. It was tragic and sad.

We left Winona and headed north on our one-week adventure in the Winona Rider. First stop — Tumbled Rock Brewery in Baraboo, Wisconsin. While the place feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere, it is close to Devil’s Lake State Park, a popular attraction that was spectacular. Baraboo is famous as the home of the Ringling Brothers and their circus.

We had dinner and a local English IPA (it was very good) at the outdoor bar and were entertained by an enjoyable blues singer from Cedar Rapids, Iowa. While we were hoping for a circus act, the singer won Lisa over when he did a James Taylor song early in his first set.

Toasting a Successful Travel Day
Tumbled Rock Brewery
Sophie and Ralphie Enjoying the Evening’s Entertainment

As we headed west, Lisa said she had always wanted to visit Winona, Minnesota since it had the same name as the lake she so dearly loved. And, since our van, the Winona Rider shared the name we knew we had to take the detour to the town. Oh, and the original Winona Ryder was born there so it had that going for it too.

The town of 27,500 was beautiful. It had a large lake at its center named Lake Winona (as opposed to our Winona Lake) and ran along the Mississippi River at the Minnesota/Wisconsin border. We had a terrific lunch on the shore of the lake. After lunch I headed to the center of town, only to be flagged down by a local telling me I was going the wrong way on a one-way road. I hate it when that happens.

Once we got turned back around, we found the Winona Visitors’ Center and Lisa bought a t-shirt. You’ll probably see her wearing it someday. She’s very proud of it.

Us in front of Lake Winona. My Port Winona shirt is from Indiana, not here.
Lisa at the Lake Winona Visitors’ Center
Lisa’s new favorite shirt

We left Winona and headed west for Garretson, SD and our current overnight stay at Humble Hill Winery. Garretson’s claim to fame is that Jesse James robbed a bank here and eluded the posse sent out to capture him. We didn’t see him either.

Rob, the owner had a dream to start a winery ever since he met a retired Lt. Colonel in San Luis Obispo who had started one in California. Rob is a retired Army Lt. Colonel and thought he could do the same. He said it took him about ten years to make it a reality, but, he seems to be doing well with it. Things started out rocky, however. First, a powerful line of thunderstorms came through in 2015 and blew down the building behind his home where he planned to put the tasting room. We are parked right next to the wreckage. Then, the new garage addition he put on his home for the tasting room burned down. He finally rebuilt and opened a couple of years later. Give him credit for persistence.

Sophie and Ralphie at Humble Hill Winery
The should-have-been tasting room that blew down in 2015

Lisa and I have been appreciating the simple pleasures of road travel on this leg of the trip. We have been able to see things we never would have seen and meet people we never would have met had we simply flown from one place to the other. It is a slower pace that we are cherishing. And, coming from the West we don’t have much water. In the Midwest, water is plentiful. So, while we may have the wine in California, no one can top the lakes in the Midwest. If you haven’t spent time at one, you haven’t lived.

It’s also a pace that we may long for on our next leg as we head to the tourist crowds of Badlands National Park and the Black Hills. Stay tuned . . .

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Nelson Family Vineyards

We spent two days at an RV Park in Avenue of the Giants before driving to Nelson Family Vineyards. Our hikes around Avenue of the Giants were amazing even though most trails once again don’t allow dogs. We were resourceful and found trails that did even though we needed to drive to Eureka for one of them. The Elk River Trail in Eureka was everything you could want in a trail so we weren’t disappointed. Because the temps were chilly and windy, we were forced to eat our dinners inside. We were pretty impressed with ourselves that we could cook and serve dinner for four people and three dogs in a Sprinter Van. It definitely was like a game of Twister but we enjoyed ourselves and had good food and, of course, great wine!

Thumbs up to Elk River Trail in Eureka!

We spent one lovely evening in Nelson Family Vineyards-the last night of our trip. Nelson Family Vineyards is south of Ukiah right off of 101. It’s a beautiful 2000 acre ranch that has been family owned and operated since 1951. Not only does it have 200 acres of vineyards but it also has 37 acres of Bartlett Pears, 7 acres of Christmas tree with a few donkeys, and 300 olive trees. We had a wine tasting outdoors in a lovely setting looking at Redwood Trees and acres of vines. Not only did we buy some Sauvignon Blanc but we also came home with Honey, Balsamic Vinegar Reduction, and some Olive Oil.

The Tasting Room
Donkeys and Christmas Trees at the Ranch

The best part of the visit was our RV site. We were in the middle of the hills and the vineyards in an extremely peaceful setting. The site can have up to 15 RV’s but we were lucky and only three RV’s showed up for the evening. We had a lovely charcuterie dinner and watched the sunset over the vines.

Our Camp Sight
Morning in the Vineyard

Not being natives of California, Brad and I are continually amazed at the beauty of this state and the many places we still have yet to see. Sometimes we pinch ourselves that we both were lucky to end up living in a place with so much natural beauty and diversity.

And once again, our Harvest Host visit reaffirmed why we enjoy them so much. We had a vineyard almost to ourselves and woke up (after 9 ½ hours sleep!) to only the sounds of birds and a few critters. It was a good way to end our week.

We were all Ralphie at the end of this trip!!
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