Author Archives: lisablackwell

The Mighty Himalayas

On Tuesday, Nov 3, Brad and I are heading out for a two week journey to the Himalayan countries. We’ll visit Thailand, Bhutan, China, and Tibet.  The wonderful team through Exclusive Resorts will be our travel guide and have given us our packing lists, visas, and tons of advice on how to sleep at high altitude!  We will be traveling from Bangkok at sea level to over 14,000 feet in Tibet.  Packing for this adventure is a challenge as well since the current temperature in Bangkok is 92 degrees and in Lhasa, Tibet it is 36 degrees with snow showers!  Packing only 44 lbs of luggage for such different climates could be our first real test of the trip!

We chose the Himalayas because it brought together hiking, spiritual and cultural events, and just plain breath-taking views for Brad to photograph!  We also hope to go to a lot of markets and add to the canvas food pictures on our kitchen wall.  I personally am looking forward to meeting with an astrologer, learning about Tibetan medicine and buddhism, and taking an archery lesson among all of the other site-seeing opportunities.  It’s going to be a trip we won’t soon forget!

Our original trip was to include Nepal but we no longer can visit there because of the devastating earthquake that hit the country last spring.  We had friends on that journey and were following them via Facebook.  They were in the airport the day the earthquake hit and were able to leave five hours later. They were, however, definitely affected by the quake and how close they came to being in a disaster of epic proportions.  We are saddened that we still cannot visit Nepal because the infrastructure is not capable of hosting tourists yet.  We know that this must be devastating to the economy and people of Nepal.

We will try our very best to keep you posted about our journeys via this blog but we have been told that some of the countries we will visit won’t allow us to post via Facebook (What? The horror!) and the internet.  When I called AT&T yesterday to get extra international coverage, they let me know that they really don’t have an international service plan where we are going so we should try not to use our phones unless there is a true emergency!  I guess we really will be off the grid!

We have published our itinerary on the side of this blog so you can follow where we are during the next two weeks.  At this point, they are just words and names on an itinerary to us as we have never been to any of these places before and have only briefly read our travel books.  (I’m not sure that Brad even knows exactly what day and time we are leaving yet!)  Those of you who have followed us before know that our trips have had many interesting twists and turns from Brad being detained in Chile for a contraband apple to Lisa getting a fish massage in Cambodia and, of course, to Brad’s infamous $2.50 haircut.  (They are in previous posts if you are interested!)  Who knows what mishaps lie ahead!

Enjoy the journey with us!

Brad and Lisa

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Final Thoughts on our Trip to Argentina and Chile

Group Travel is not for everyone.  Sometimes there are schedules and early wake-up calls and tours that might not be of interest. Sometimes you have the loss of spontaneity that you get when you travel alone.    But if you travel with a group like we just did, you will find yourself having adventures that you never thought you would experience and go to places that you have never heard of.  When we signed on for this trip, we were excited about visiting Buenos Aires and Santiago;  we had read about these two cities and had seen many photographs.  As everyone knows, we love our wine so we knew that Mendoza would be a favorite for the both of us.  Drinking Malbec at the base of the Andes Mountains?  A no-brainer.

But we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert.  We had no idea what to expect; the itinerary suggested some hiking in the mountains and we thought that would be fun because we like to hike.  Little did we know that we would get to see landscapes so unreal that we thought we were in a movie set of Star Wars or Indiana Jones; or  that we would experience bubbling, sizzling geysers as we watched the sunrise in the Andes; or view the clearest night skies we have ever seen.   And, of course, we never dreamed we would run down a steep sand dune giggling and whooping it up like a bunch of children!

Another thing that happens on a group trip is that you form some wonderful friendships and bonds over the course of ten days.  We didn’t know any of the 22 people on our trip before we arrived but now we have lasting memories with each of them.  We all shared a love of travel and adventure but beyond that we all lived very different lives all throughout various parts of the country.  Because of this trip, we can now say we have tangoed together in Buenos Aires, discovered a secret speak-easy disguised as a floral shop, discussed art with an influential Buenos Aires Painter, played a Blind Wine-Tasting Game at the foot of the Andes, biked and hiked in Mendoza, were detained in a Chilean airport (ok…just Adele and Brad can say that), experienced the sunrise with bubbling geysers,  went star-gazing in the Southern Hemisphere, and ran down the steepest sand dune in the Atacama Desert.   Our last lunch was evidence of the bond we all formed as we made toast after toast to all of the fun things we did and our fantastic guides. Ten days ago we were strangers.  We now have a bond that will last a lifetime.

A group trip is only as good as its leaders and we had the good fortune of having a team that cared for our well-being every turn of the way.  Stephanie and Hallie from Blue Parallel worked tirelessly behind the scenes so we didn’t have to worry about anything.  Each of them could have been the same age as some of our children; yet they were the ones working hard to make sure that lost luggage was found and all of our dietary issues (and there were a lot) were cared for at each restaurant and dinner.  The moms of the group were all worried that Stephanie could never finish her meal for having to deal with various issues in the group and kept urging her to eat and rest more!  Stephanie had the patience of a saint and was always smiling and polite (there’s that word again) as the daily itineraries were changed or flights were missed because someone had an apple in his pack!

And then there was Dugald, our leader from Exclusive Resorts.  He was there with a devilish grin urging people to dive in to the freezing cold salt lagoon, run up a cactus-filled hill, or sprint down a steep sand dune– always in good spirit and filled with zest and enthusiasm.  He was a friend to us all,  always asking for feedback and checking in with how the trip was going.

Needless to say, because of all these bonds there were a few tears and lots of hugs when we had to say good-bye to everyone at the Santiago Airport.  We feel very fortunate to have been able to go on this trip with these people.  Memories like these can’t be made in a Frommers Guidebook, National Geographic, or an Internet Travel Site.  They must be savored and enjoyed with a Pisco Sour and a run down a sand dune!

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald:  Our Fearless Leaders

Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald: Our Fearless Leaders

The Group

The Group

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Santiago: The Chevy Chase Version

We spent 24 hours in Santiago on the last leg of our South American Journey.  It really isn’t fair to assess a place when you only have 24 hours to take it all in; we felt a little bit like Chevy Chase as Chuck Griswold in the Vacation movies staring at each sight for a few seconds and going on to the next.   As those of you who travel a lot know that by the end of a trip, you can hit tourist burn-out where you just can’t appreciate or retain any more facts about another church or historic building.  I feel like we need to go back to Santiago to really experience the different neighborhoods we saw but here are our brief impressions of the city.

Santiago is a friendly, modern,  and extremely clean city.  The workers clean the city twice a day and you will not see a piece of trash or litter on the ground anywhere.  We took a walk around our hotel and saw very quaint homes and condominium complexes that were extremely well cared for.  Santiago also has a very American feel to it.  On our walk we passed at least four Starbucks and every single American food chain that you can name.  According to our guide, Chileans feel that Applebee’s or Ruby Tuesday is an example of Fine American Dining and is a place that they would take their wife for an anniversary dinner or special occasion.  (I quickly let Brad know that he couldn’t get away with that for our anniversary back here in the States!)

The highlight of our visit to Santiago was dining one last time at lunch with our group at Aqui esta Coco.  It is considered the best seafood restaurant in Santiago and it did not disappoint.  We were served a wide variety of seafood and fish dishes followed by a cake named Grandmother’s 1000 Layer Dulce de Leche cake.  Yum!  The lunch started out with each of us being served a Pisco Sour;  a Chilean drink made with a Pisco liquor, lime, and egg whites.  It went down a little too easy for some of us!  We were also served three different types of wine that never seemed to be empty in our glasses!  (You might also be getting a hint of why our memory of some of the details of Santiago sites are a little hazy!)

Seafood Extravaganza at Aqui Esta Coco

Seafood Extravaganza at Aqui Esta Coco

Our last meal with the group

Our last meal with the group

After our three hour lunch, we hit the city for a tour visiting the Plaza de Armas, the Presidential Palace, and the Bohemian Section of the city.  We ended our tour with a trip up San Cristobal Hill to see the Shrine of the Virgin Mary and views of the city.

Palacio de la Moneda: the Presidential Palace

Palacio de la Moneda: the Presidential Palace

Pedestrian Mall

Pedestrian Mall

It's an election year. Can you tell?

It’s an election year. Can you tell?

Men playing chess in Plaza de Armas

Men playing chess in Plaza de Armas

The Former National Congress Building

The Former National Congress Building

The Shrine of the Virgin Mary

The Shrine of the Virgin Mary

City View of Santiago

City View of Santiago

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The Atacama Desert — Earth, Wind, Fire, and Water (a little bit)

The driest place on Earth.

The Atacama desert in northern Chile receives less rainfall than the Mojave desert, the Sahara desert, and anywhere else on the planet. The wetter area, where we are staying, receives 1 to 2 inches of rain per year. Other places in the region get a mere drop of precipitation. Most of the water for the region comes in the form of snowmelt running off from the Andes Mountains to the east.

We landed on Thursday (after the apple caper) in Calama. We felt like we had traveled to another planet. There was no vegetation whatsoever for miles. When we finally saw green, it was in the form of little stubby brush sparsely sprinkled on the landscape. As we traveled throughout the area in the next couple of days, we found it to be extremely diverse. Part Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom; part Start Wars in the original movie; and, we’re convinced that the Mars Rover actually landed here in another part of the desert.

We’re in the high desert — about 8,000 feet above sea level. The mountains surrounding us rise to 18,000 feet. The area is dominated by volcanoes. In fact, there are 150 active volcanoes in Chile — 10% of the world’s active volcanoes. Several are visible from our vantage point.

It is difficult for us to convey the magnificence of this place. The pictures don’t even do it justice. The population consists of miners (one of the largest copper mining areas in the world) and indigenous people who have been here for thousands of years. The area is geologically active; and, the landscape varies greatly. Our resort is in an oasis that is fed by one of the few precious rivers that flow from the Andes.

We started in the Atacama Salt Flats. Pink flamingoes thrive here on the brine shrimp that are the only marine life in the salt lagoons. We got up very early one morning to see the Tatio Geysers that sit at 15,000 feet above sea level in the mountains. We moved on to the Puritama Thermal Hot Springs for a dip; we watched the sun set on the mountains with colors changing from brown to pink to red. At night we went stargazing. Because of the altitude, the dry air, and the lack of city lights, this is one of the best places in the world for observatories. The Milky Way was prominent, looking like hazy clouds in the sky (for you, Laura Kapp). We saw the Magellenic Clouds for the first time ever since they sit deep in the southern sky and can’t be seen from the Northern Hemisphere.

We then went on one of the most amazing hikes we’ve ever done. Climbing to the top of a ridge, we had a spectacular view of — I’m not sure how to describe it — the jagged red peaks near our resort. We traversed the ridge until we came upon the largest sand dunes we’ve ever seen. The sand literally climbed to the top of the cliffs on the ridge we were hiking.

The guide suddenly stopped and said to us, “we’ll go down here.” Uh, where? There was nothing but giant, steep dunes over the cliff for as far as we could see. “Here,” he said. Down the sand. Whoa. The looks on all the faces of the people in our group were simply stunned. One said, “Where is the other way down. I’m not going down there.” Lisa asked me to stay right with her and hold her hand. Most just kept an uncomfortable look on their faces and stayed silent.

One by one people stepped off the cliff and onto the sand dune. It was soft and deep. Soon we were all slipping and sliding and gliding and running down this steep sand pile. An entire group of fifty-somethings started whooping and hollering like 12-year olds. It was the most amazing hiking experience we’ve ever had. When we got to the bottom we were all exhilarated, high-fiving and laughing out loud. We emptied our shoes of the five pounds of sand that had accumulated in them and hiked out the bottom of the canyon. We drank a well-deserved Chilean beer and toasted our accomplishment.

Take some time to review the photos below. Even though they don’t fully do the region justice — it is so spectacular in person — you’ll get an idea of what we experienced. Before coming here, we had never even heard of the Atacama Desert. This once-in-a-lifetime experience will now forever be with us.

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Our resort — Alto Atacama

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We rode mountain bikes for the 13 miles to the Cejar Lagoon — it is as salty as the Dead Sea.

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This dog ran the full 13 miles with us. The guide says he does this every day.

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Dugald, Lance, Matt, and Brad before diving into the 55 degree salt water at the lagoon.

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Diving in. Notice the dog came in with us.

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The water was very, very cold. And, the salt burned the eyes. But, we did it!

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Lisa’s version of diving in.

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The pink flamingoes. Arne and Donna Larson, these two are for you.

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The flying flamingoes.

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We bought sweaters from this store in Tocanao. They were made from these llamas.

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The store owner kissing her llama.

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Lisa and Brad on the salt flats in front of an Andes volcano. I know it looks like a green screen shot, but, it’s real.

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Lisa in her yoga pose. She has to do one everywhere we go!

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Our fun, fantastic Exclusive Resorts tour leaders — Stephanie, Hallie, and Dugald

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Sunset over the Atacama Salt Flat with a volcano in the background.

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Lisa looking “ruggedly attractive.”

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The Tatio Geysers at sunrise. They are at 15,000 ft above sea level. It was 13 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Brrr.

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The boys standing in the steam from a geyser. Unlike Yellowstone, you can walk right up and look at them.

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Lisa and Hallie warming themselves on a hot rock. Note the smiles as they thaw out somewhat.

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A vicuna — a small animal related to camels and llamas.

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Here we all are in the Puritama Thermal Springs thawing out from our visit to the geysers. The same geologic phenomenon that heats the geysers warms the water here.

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And finally, the now infamous hike. We entered in this “Indiana Jones-like” tunnel. It was about a quarter mile long and unlit. We truly learned the meaning of the phrase “light at the end of the tunnel.”

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Climbing to the top of the ridge we would walk for the next few miles.

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Not to the top yet!

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The view from the ridge. We have never seen anything like this before.

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I think those tracks in the foreground are from the Mars Rover. It really landed here.

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Look at that monstrous sand dune reaching all the way up to the ridge. I joked that we could slide down it if we wanted to. I didn’t realize how, right I would be.

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Starting our way down. I think Lisa is saying, “Brad, what have you gotten me in to!!?”

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Heading down. It’s steep and deep.

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About 10% of the way down. That’s the ridge we were hiking at the top of the photo.

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Everyone has their confidence and is beginning to run down.

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Getting to the bottom. Look at how far up the ridge is from here.

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After a long, satisfying day, we were treated to this beautiful orange sunset back at our resort.

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Crimes, Punishment, and Other Travel Inconveniences

I was detained by Chilean authorities as I attempted to enter the country. They knew they had me. Now all they needed was for me to confess. I hadn’t thought my actions would lead to this. But, now here I was — alone, waiting for the interrogation. . .

Like life, travel doesn’t always go like you might expect or hope. You learn a lot about yourself and others, however, when something does go wrong. Earlier this year, Lisa broke her wrist on a sailing trip, hours from decent medical care. Our friends rallied, sprang into action, and creatively improvised to get her the help she needed. We learned that we have the world’s best friends.

But, problems don’t usually rise to crisis level. Sometimes it is just a relatively minor inconvenience. One of our travel companions, Sharon, is a life coach. She says that people determine their own happiness by the way they respond to the things that happen to them. I think this is right. You can turn a minor irritation into a major negative and bring everyone down. Or, you can roll with it, see the humor in your situation and create an adventure for yourself.

Sharon has personally tested her theory this week. We were in line to check our bags in Buenos Aires for our flight to Mendoza. Sharon said, “I sure hope my bags don’t get lost. I couldn’t survive without the stuff in my luggage.” (foreshadowing). Well, you guessed it. We got to Mendoza and Sharon’s bag was no where to be found. We later learned it went to Chile and is still having the time of its life somewhere in that country. We’re just not sure where. Well, instead of getting angry and ruining her vacation, she has taken the whole thing in stride. The travel gods tested her further when she went to the store to buy some casual shoes. She tried on the left one — it fit — so she bought them and brought them back to the resort. The next morning as we were getting ready to leave for Chile, we heard she and her friend Laura laughing uncontrollably as they came into the breakfast room. We asked what was so funny. She pointed at the shoes and said, “Two left shoes, no right one.”

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Sharon, discovering that she had two left shoes.

I’m not sure I would have had the same patience.

Anyway, you’re probably wondering what this has to do with my trouble getting into Chile. Back to that story.

We landed in Santiago and were transferring to our flight to Calama in the Atacama desert. We had to go through immigration, collect our bags, go through customs, recheck our bags, go back through security, and board our flight to Calama. My issue began when we went through customs.

I handed the agent my customs form and put my bags on that conveyor belt that takes everything through the x-ray. As I was collecting my bags on the other side, one of the agents grabs my backpack and says, “who does this belong to?” I told him it was mine and I came over to see what the problem was. Was I supposed to declare my iPad? Did I leave a dirty pair of underwear in there? Hmmm. He asked, “Do you have any fruit in here?” Uh oh. The nice guide that was with us on our ride to the airport gave us some fruit to bring along because we were going to be traveling through lunch time. I had forgotten that I had thrown contraband in my backpack — (cue dramatic music) an apple. That darned forbidden fruit.

I was immediately ushered over to the area they hold criminals. Lisa looked with panic at her detained spouse. Her parents warned I’d be trouble (I’m sure this was going through her mind at the time). Our tour leader Stephanie threw herself into the fray. She said something in Spanish that I’m sure translated to “I know this guy looks suspicious, but, can you please let him go so we can make our plane?” When that didn’t work I was moved over to another area to answer questions so the customs agent could fill out a form by hand. The form basically said that I claimed no fruit on my customs form and had, in my possession, one apple, .25kg. She showed me the place on the form that indicated this was a misdemeanor and they could lock me up for the better part of the rest of my life. (OK, I exaggerate). I couldn’t deny it because there on the desk, in a plastic baggie to keep whatever ills it contained out of the country, was the evidence — my (cue dramatic music) apple.

Well, after I signed the paper, I was sent back to the holding area and told to wait. There in the waiting area was my fellow traveler and also criminal, Adele. I asked her what she was in for. She had some raisins and nut mix in her possession. Surely that is worse than a single apple. I mean, how many raisins and nuts were in that partial package? Maybe they’ll be satisfied with working her over and letting me go. In the meantime, Stephanie is still working to get us both free. I still couldn’t understand what they were saying (see early blog, Lost in Translation). But, there was a lot of head shaking by the customs guys. I knew that couldn’t be good.

Well, after a while, Adele and I go into a new room and are speaking to separate agents. Mine was a very nice agent who was entering everything on the first form into the computer. She prints it out and proceeds to type something into another form. She asks me if I speak Spanish. I say no and she says her English is not good. I smile and tell her that it’s OK, we can figure it out together. I thought charming her might just work.

Then the customs lady starts the (cue even more dramatic music) interrogation. And, there on the desk was that dreaded baggie with the criminal evidence in it. I’m sunk. I may never see Lisa and the kids again. She gets tough quickly. “Why did you try to bring an apple into the country?” I answer, “Uh, because I thew it in my backpack this morning and forgot it was there.” She says, “Backpack, huh?” I nod. She then fills out a third form on the computer. I looked over and Adele was getting the same third degree questioning from her agent. But, she had tears in her eyes. “Oh, no,” I think. I can’t compete with crying. They’ll book me for sure. Meanwhile, Stephanie was standing outside peeking in to make sure no Geneva Convention rules were being violated.

After the nice agent finishes all the forms she prints them, stamps them, and puts them down in front of me. The first one was a list of the charges — attempting to bring one apple, .25kg, into the country. The second, my confession. The third, my permission to destroy the offending fruit. Since the apple baggie was still sitting on the desk staring at me, I had no choice but to sign.

She then puts a card in front of me that says the minimum fine was $200 US dollars. Whoa, that is the most expensive apple I never got to eat. I begin to reach for my credit card when she say, “No. Since this is your first offense we will charge you nothing.” You are free to go.

“Free? To go? You mean I can see my wife and kids again?” She smiles and nods. I walk out where Adele, her husband Stephen, and Stephanie are waiting. There are ten minutes before our flight is scheduled to leave. Let’s go! As we are heading up the elevator, Stephanie tells me we can catch the next flight in just over an hour. I said, “If we hurry, we can catch this one.” She gave me one of those “Oh you poor, foolish soul” looks and said, “perhaps.” Stephanie is always so polite.

As we got to the check in line there was Lisa waiting for me with our luggage. I had hoped she would have gone ahead and boarded the earlier flight, but, I was so happy to see her. She told me she would never leave without me.

Anyway, Stephanie, Adele, Stephen, Lisa and I had a nice lunch in the airport as we waited for the next flight. We laughed about our plight and vowed never again to carry fruit when we travel. You see, travel, like life, is what you make of it. Things may not always go the way you expect them or want them to go. But, no matter what, it can be an adventure. Enjoy the ride.

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Adele and I with our criminal papers.

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Mendoza — Wine Country by the Mountains

A serious change of pace.

We left the hustle-bustle of Buenos Aires by plane for our two-hour flight to Mendoza. The distance was more than the few hundred miles we flew. Mendoza sits in the shadow of the Andes Mountains in the northeastern part of Argentina. Mt. Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere at 22,837 ft. above sea level. For context, the tallest mountains in Colorado are a mere 14,000+ ft. While Buenos Aires had that European flair, Mendoza is notably Latin American with a Southwestern US feel.

We drove out of town and into wine country to our lodging at the Cavas Wine Lodge. Our accommodations were individual adobe and stone villas set among the vineyards with spectacular views of the Andes. The unique architecture features a funny-looking chimney and rooftop deck. They are such cozy little places that we weren’t sure we wanted to leave our villa for the many events we had scheduled.

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One of the villas with the Andes mountains in the background.

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The villas among the vineyards. Note the lack of growth on the vines. We’re still in early Spring before bud break.

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The very old vines on the property.

After a delicious lunch we unpacked and relaxed for a bit on the rooftop deck. I might have relaxed a bit too much:

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We got a cooking class before dinner from the lodge’s great chef. Our first lesson was in making empanadas, a traditional Argentine appetizer. Empanadas are pastries with delicious fillings. Ours had beef, green olives, paprika, grilled vegetables, and many herbs. The Argentines are very good at creating foods with complex flavors. Our chef was no exception. OK, these things taste great. But, making them certainly isn’t as easy as it looks. Our group was less than supportive as my every attempt at rolling up the edge of the dough into the perfectly twisted seal failed miserably. My only consolation was that Lisa was only marginally better than I was. For our friends expecting empanadas when you visit, watch for the Trader Joe’s version.

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The chefs ready to teach their eager subjects.

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The, uh, eager subjects.

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Myla helping to make the veggies for the empanadas.

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Chef folding his empanada perfectly.

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Our group struggling to do what chef just showed us.

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Lisa’s art work.

Wine Tasting

The next morning we arose for a full day of hiking, biking, horseback riding and, of course, wine tasting. Lisa and I were really looking forward to the activity because, to be truthful, we have been consuming many more calories than we’ve been burning. We couldn’t remember the last time we had been hungry. We drove over to the Uco Valley. It sits between the foothills and the Andes and is considered the Napa Valley of Argentina. While the roads are not yet very developed — many are still dirt — the wine industry is revving up. We hiked, biked, and had a wonderful picnic overlooking the valley. We then headed over to one of the prominent wineries in the region for a tasting.

Grape vines were brought to Mendoza 500 years ago by the Europeans. So winemaking isn’t new to the region. But, for many years it was a local industry. During the mid-1900s winemaking ramped up but the quality was less than desirable. They started to improve the quality in the 1970s, but, the region took a major hit in what was known locally as the “Beer Crisis”. Sounds innocuous enough, but, when Argentines began switching to other drinks, such as beer, the industry nearly collapsed (Brad Collins, we blame you). Many old vintners simply went out of business. But, in the end, this worked out well for the region as new winemakers moved in with a resolve to improve the quality. By the late 1990s Mendoza was becoming known throughout the world. And, when the dot com bubble burst, the global recession and devalued peso allowed the vintners to sell their high-quality product to other countries at a great price. Malbec, the dominant grape in the region had been used by the French as a blending grape in their Bordeaux wines. But the Argentines turned it into a global phenomenon as a grape that could stand on its own.

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Lisa and I overlooking the Uco Valley.

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Our traveling companions

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The Hikers

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Picnic Lunch

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Gorgeous Setting for Lunch

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Traditional Argentine Dancers and Musicians at Lunch

After lunch, we went to a local winery named Piattelli. The wine was exceptional and the winemaker was a joy to talk to and learn from. The best part of the experience was learning a new wine-tasting game! All we will tell you is that it involves blind tasting wine, placing bets, and winning prizes. You can look forward to playing this game at our house at an upcoming party!

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The Piattelli Winemaker giving us a tour

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Blind Wine-Tasting Game.

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Lisa and Sonja trying to guess their wine.

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Lisa is not too happy about Dugald beating her out at the end of the game!

We still had one more excursion in us this evening before the day was done. A group of us went to the restaurant 1884 in the town of Mendoza. 1884 is run by renowned chef Francis Mallman and has been voted one of the best restaurants in Argentina. The food was delicious although the portion sizes could have fed four people with each serving. The best part of the evening was being able to dine with Dana Wilke, a family friend from Danville, who is studying abroad here with a program with UC Davis. She is just starting her program and has plans to have a wonderful adventure here while taking five classes entirely in Spanish. All in all, we loved Mendoza and could easily spend a few more days here discovering all that this area has to offer.

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Dinner at 1884 with Dana Wilke

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And Now….Dancing the Argentine Tango

Today was filled with interesting discussions about art, sex, and tango. How often does that happen on a Monday? Our morning started with an intimate presentation by Ernesto Bertani; a famous Argentinian artist. He displayed and explained his various works of art at a local gallery. Because he knows no English, his words were translated by one of our guides. His works were very sensual so frequently our guide had to pause and give us a funny look and then translate his views on lovers, sexuality, and politics. We found his work to be fascinating. He painted series of pictures about the loss of creativity in the modern world, the loss of identity in the Argentinian system, and the tension between men and women. Here are a few pictures of his different pieces.

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After visiting with Ernesto, we took a tour of the MALBA Art Museum which features more than 200 works by contemporary and modern Latin American artists. We recognized some of the more famous pieces and were introduced to the complex, fascinating world of Latin American art.

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But the highlight of the day had to be our Argentine tango lessons! We were escorted to a private dance studio where we all taught how to do the tango. I was hoping my recent love of Zumba might get me through the tango but quickly learned that the two had nothing to do with one another. We were taught some basic dance steps at the beginning and Brad and I felt like we were at a Junior High School Dance. With each step we would count One, Two, Three, Four. As soon as we would “master” one move, the professionals would teach us a new twist….some new turns; a little move called the Ocho; a new way to hold our arms. It was very challenging but also a lot of fun. Our teachers were extremely patient and tried their best to encourage us!! Needless to say, we will not be heading to Dancing With The Stars anytime soon!

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The Professionals

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Pretending to Be Professionals

After our Tango lessons, we went to a renowned Argentine restaurant called Cabana Les Lilas in Puerto Madero. We sat outside by the port and had a delicious meal of authentic Argentinian Fare: Empanadas, Wonderful Cheeses and Breads, Delicious Local Grass-Fed Beef, and Dulche de Leche Crepes. We were absolutely stuffed at the end of the meal.

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Since this was our last night in Buenos Aires, we decided we had to go out for one last drink to a nearby speak-easy. By day, it passes as a floral shop but by night you go into a secret door down to the basement for drinks and delicious food. The owner makes his own gin and we had the most delicious gin and tonics that we have ever had. Very refreshing (I think the secret was the grapefruit slice and the sprig of thyme). It was the end to a wonderful, last day in Buenos Aires.

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20131001-001052.jpg The interior of the flower shop.

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Looks like a floral refrigerator? No, it’s the secret door to the basement and our mysterious speak-easy bar.

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Buenos Aires — Fresh Air, Fair Winds

There are a few stories on how Buenos Aires got its name. One says that settlers in the 1300s established the town on a hill above the old settlement. The new location was free of the rotten smell of the old place down by the swamp. Hence the name in Spanish, Fresh Air. Another story suggests that the Virgin Mary helped calm the rough seas faced by sailors in the area. Another translation being Fair Winds.

Lisa and I got to tour the city yesterday. If you had been plopped here without knowing where you were, you might have thought you were in a European city. French, Roman, and Spanish architecture dominate the skyline. The energy of the city is palpable and the people are friendly and welcoming.

Our first stop, Plaza de Mayo (May Square) was named for the May 1810 revolution that ultimately led to the independence of Argentina from Spain. It is surrounded by Casa Rosada — the presidential palace, the National Bank of Argentina, and the Metropolitan Cathedral (where Pope Francis was the Cardinal). The plaza has been the site of many historic events in Buenos Aires; Evita’s famous speech to the people, protests of all sorts, and most recently, the celebration of the naming of Pope Francis. Take a look:

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View of the city street off the plaza. The obelisk, built in 1936, commemorates the 4th centennial of the city

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Lisa and Brad in front of the Casa Rosada

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The Casa Rosada balcony where Evita Peron told Argentina not to cry for her.

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A boy and his father playing with the pigeons.

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The National Bank of Argentina — their Fed

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The Metropolitan Cathedral. It is currently being renovated. Note the Greek or Roman look to the building.

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Signs in the plaza protesting the Falklands War (Malvinas Islands) thirty years hence. They’re still upset about it.

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Inside the beautiful Metropolitan Cathedral where Pope Francis used to preside.

La Boca

La Boca is a neighborhood near the city’s old port. Boca means “mouth” and it sits at the mouth of the Matanza river where it empties into the sea. This area has a distinctively Latin feel. It was the barrio where immigrants, mostly Italians, settled. The tenement houses have been converted to stores and cafes. But, the colorful feel remains. Nearby is the soccer stadium of the local team. It just so happened that they were playing their arch rival yesterday so the blue and yellow colors were flying. There was as much excitement as there will be in San Francisco when the Seahawks come to town later this Fall. Our guide told us that they don’t allow opposing team fans in the stadium to avoid riots. I hope that doesn’t happen in American sports.

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A tenement house.

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A relative?

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A Whole City of Dead People!

La Recoleta Cemetery holds the graves of many of the rich, famous, and prominent people (now dead, of course) in Argentina. Eva Peron is here. There are a few former presidents, the founder of the Argentine Navy is here, and there are people with interesting and, for some, macabre stories.

This isn’t your ordinary cemetery. It consists of mausoleums arranged like streets and alleys in a city. There was even a locator map at the entrance so you could find any one of the four thousand people buried there. Entire families are interred in each, and, in most cases, the caskets and urns are open to those walking by. Sounds creepy. But, it was more fascinating than anything. As we roamed from street to street we noted the wide variation of designs and styles. Some mausoleums were fancy and ornate, others very plain. Some were old, some new. They were constructed of brick, stone, marble, metal — you name it.

There was the story of one family’s plot in which the teenage daughter, who had a heart condition, died and was interred in the family mausoleum. Except for one problem — she wasn’t dead. A few days later they found the casket moved, the lid askew. She ultimately died from her heart condition trying to get out. The father built a statue of a young girl opening a door to the front of the mausoleum as a symbol of her ultimate entry into paradise. Yeah, we thought the story was creepy too.

After wandering a few aisles, we came upon Eva Peron’s (Duarte) grave site. There were many fresh flowers on it. Even though she died in 1952, it is amazing the influence she still has on the Argentine people to this day. I must admit we were all a bit star struck standing there with the coffins inside visible to us.

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A “street” in the cemetery.

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And, finally, Eva Peron’s grave.

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CJ’s cousin guarding the cemetery.

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Alright, enough talk of the dead.

Finally, Lisa and I had to make a stop to buy Argentina’s signature product. The country is known for its cattle. Beef is an art form here. And, leather goods are among the best in the world. We both found leather jackets we loved at Casa Lopez, a well-known leather goods designer. Here we are with our very happy sales lady modeling our find:

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Lost in Translation

I took Spanish through the eighth grade — don’t remember much. Lisa took French. We’re now paying for that teenage lapse in judgment.

We left Danville at 9am on Friday, flew from San Francisco to Houston, sat around for three hours, then flew 10 hours to Buenos Aires, landing at 10am Saturday morning. Our official tour activities don’t begin until Sunday. So, we had all day Saturday to explore Buenos Aires on our own. We’re always up for adventure. So, after checking in to the hotel, we headed out to explore.

Our tour guide gave us a list of restaurants to try. And, since it was now after noon, we were hungry. So, we set out to one in a section of town called Palermo SoHo. The SoHo part is not coincidence. It is very much like SoHo in Manhattan. Quaint, hip, walkable. Our first problem started because there were no addresses on the restaurant list. The hotel bellman gave our taxi driver the address (I didn’t understand a word.) and we set off. After driving about 15 minutes, we stopped in the middle of a non-descript street with nothing that resembled a restaurant. The taxi driver, who was quite friendly, started giving us numbers. “Cinco nueve.” “Uh, cuatro, nueve.” I said, “This doesn’t look quite right. let’s go to the next block,” all the while motioning with my hands since he didn’t understand English and me, Spanish.

I told him to drop us off at the corner and we would find it. We knew we were close. There was a security guy on the street corner, so I showed him my restaurant list and asked him if he’s heard of Lele de Troya, the place we were seeking. He shook his head, so we set off on our own. Fortunately, Google works everywhere in the world, even South America. Hmmm. The little pin dropped right on top of where we were standing. Lisa and I looked around. And, sure enough, there it was right across the street. That security guy needs to get out more.

The place had an ivy-covered arbor on the outside. And, on the inside it was a cute, low-key old place with a room all decorated in red and another in yellow. The host ask, red or yellow (I wonder how he knew to speak to us in English?). We liked the yellow better, but, the red room looked out onto the street. So, we picked red and sat at a table for two.

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The red room and the yellow room.

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The view from our table.

The host, who was also the waiter ( we were the only ones in the restaurant) came up to us and said he didn’t speak English well, but, he could understand it. Fine. We’re used to getting by with language issues. And, we can simply point to the menu if we want to order something.

Lisa wanted some bread to start, so she ordered some with avocados, tomatoes and flatbread. The she ordered a salad. I ordered the salmon ravioli. It looked good. The waiter then paused for a minute and said he’d be right back. When he returned, he said, “no crab — salmon ravioli.” I said, “no problem, I wanted salmon ravioli anyway.” So, both seemingly satisfied with our ability to effectively communicate in two different languages, he walked back to the kitchen and I continued my conversation with Lisa.

About ten minutes later, the waiter shows up with a sandwich and salad. Lisa asked what the sandwich was. I said, I think that is the bread you ordered. Hmm. Well, we missed that one. Bread is a sandwich. No problem. We each took half and ate up. Delicious. Not enough to fill me up, but, I have that salmon ravioli coming.

Fifteen minutes go by, we haven’t seen our waiter in a while, and my salmon ravioli is no where to be found. When he walks by I flag him down and ask where my ravioli is. He says, “no crab — salmon ravioli.” I said, “I know you don’t have crab. But, I wanted the salmon.” He slows down and says, “no crab — salmon ravioli, no crab salmon ravioli.” Oh. In Argentina the h’s have that back of the throat ch sound. And v’s have a b sound. He was telling me they don’t have salmon ravioli! I wonder what he thought I was going to eat.

Once we got that straight, he brought me a nice plate of mozzarella ravioli and a glass of Malbec. All-in-all, it was a great experience and the food was great.

After lunch, we walked around Palermo. It is a cobblestoned old section of town that has many cafes, restaurants, and high-end retail stores. We even found the Indiana Bar and Grill. Lisa, being from Indiana, wanted to check it out. The hostess told us it was Tex-Mex place. . . Well, they did have corn dogs on the menu.

Our first day in Buenos Aries was fun and relaxing. But, we’re looking forward to our guided portions so we have someone that can translate for us. Advice for the kids — take Spanish now. It’ll keep you from going hungry someday.

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Palermo street scene.

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The Tex Mex Indiana Bar and Grill

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It’s the beginning of Spring here in the southern hemishpere.

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Beautiful banyan trees near our hotel.

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Spring Time in Argentina and Chile

On Friday, Sept. 27, we are off to Argentina and Chile for a 10 day adventure.  Our travel time should be about 17 hours and we will arrive in their Spring Season four hours later than the Pacific Time Zone.  Once again, Brad and I have chosen a part of the world that we have never visited and have only seen through books and movies.  We aren’t sure if we will experience anything quite as exotic as fish massages, snake wine, or $2.50 haircuts on the street like we did in Southeast Asia but who knows?  We will spend three days in Buenos Aires seeing the historical sights, art galleries and learning how to tango (Brad can’t wait!)  We will then fly to Mendoza where we will spend a couple of days taking cooking lessons and learning about and tasting Malbec wine. (Brad is a lot more excited about this!)  Our time in Chile will be spent exploring, hiking, and star-gazing in the Atacama Desert and will finish with two days in Santiago before returning home.

If you would like to experience Argentina and Chile with us,  you can follow our blog.  We will do our best to inform and entertain you about the experiences we encounter on our two week trip.  Brad will undoubtedly take hundreds of pictures and we will try to weed through a few of the very best each day and publish them on the blog.  You can bookmark or click on this link  https://lisablackwell.wordpress.com/  and you will be able to read our blog.

You can also click on the “Follow” link below on the right and you will get an email each time we update our blog.  Of course, many of you know how much we love Facebook and Twitter so we will make sure to post our updates on Facebook and Twitter as well.

If you have been to this region and have any travel tips, please send them to us.  You can make a comment on the blog or let us know via Facebook or email.  We would love to hear from you!

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