Lisa and I boarded the National Geographic Resolution on Friday. We departed from the town of Longyearbyen and started our counterclockwise circumnavigation of Spitsbergen, Svalbard’s largest island. We’ll explore the island’s fjords and bays. We’re told there is quite a bit of sea ice on the eastern side. The resolution has good icebreaking capability so it should be interesting to see that area. Sea ice is often where polar bears hang out in search of their primary prey, seals.
Our first day was sunny and warm — almost too warm for the heavy clothing we were wearing. By the second day the temperature had fallen and the wind came up. We know we’re in the Arctic today!
Since Svalbard is mostly uninhabited (a total population of 2500, most of them in Longyearbyen that we just left behind), there are no places to dock. So, we get to shore on Zodiacs, small inflatable motorboats.
We came to shore in front of a large glacier. We had a chance to see the geologic impact the glacier has over ages. It was a beautiful site. We were shown photos of the same glacier over the past hundred years. It has receded noticeably over that period. Apparently, global warming is occurring three times faster at the poles than it is in warmer climates. Not a good omen for the retention of sea ice.
An adjacent mountain with its reflection in the water below.
As we left the glacier and sailed back up the fjord, we came across a herd of walruses lounging on shore.
We then left for another fjord where we hiked up to see one of the world’s largest colonies of Little Auks. These small birds are cute, squatty little creatures with plump bodies (for diving for their food) and small wings. They come to Svalbard every year to mate and nest, preferring steep rocky areas. So, to see them, we, of course, climbed up a steep rocky area. As we approached, the racket of birds in courtship got very loud. Apparently, little auks are relatively silent except during their mating season when the trills and shrieks are impossible to miss.
We came upon thousands of birds on the mountainside. They didn’t seem to mind our presence. We sat and watched them for about a half hour. It was fascinating.
The landscape in Svalbard consists of mountains, glaciers and fjords. The views are breathtaking.
And, finally, this morning we had a chance to sail by a gray whale in one of the bays.
He came up and dove down for us several times. A beautiful animal.
We still haven’t found that elusive polar bear. We’ll hope to see one soon. When we do, you’ll be the first to know!
Lisa and Brad's Travels 